Watches & Wonders, the world’s largest horological trade show, kicked off in Geneva, Switzerland, showcasing a dazzling array of timepieces from renowned brands. This year’s event celebrates a century of design excellence while also introducing innovative models that surprise collectors and enthusiasts alike. Among the standout releases is Zenith, which is marking its 160th anniversary with a special collection that includes the debut of the G.F.J. series and reimagined versions of its iconic models.
Zenith’s G.F.J. series, named after founder Georges Favre-Jacot, presents a modern take on classic aesthetics. The watch is powered by the legendary Caliber 135, featuring a remarkable 72-hour power reserve. Its 39mm platinum case showcases a deep blue lapis lazuli dial, complemented by gold-colored pyrite flecks, a mother-of-pearl subdial, and white gold baton hands. Limited to just 160 pieces, the G.F.J. is priced at $49,900 USD, embodying Zenith’s commitment to craftsmanship.
In addition to the G.F.J., Zenith has reimagined three of its most beloved models: the Chronomaster Sport, Defy Skyline Chronograph, and Pilot Big Date Chronograph, all presented in a specially developed blue ceramic. The Pilot Big Date Chronograph, priced at $15,500 USD, features a 42.5 mm case and is powered by the El Primero 3652 movement, providing a 60-hour power reserve. The Defy Skyline Chronograph, retailing for $23,800 USD, boasts a 42mm case size and is powered by the El Primero 3600 automatic movement. Lastly, the Chronomaster Sport, with a price tag of $22,700 USD, highlights Zenith’s expertise in high-frequency chronographs.
Cartier made waves at the event by reviving its Tank à Guichet, a digital interpretation of its classic Tank model first released in 1928. This marks the first time in 20 years that the French maison has created this design, which features apertures for hours and minutes. The limited edition in platinum is available in just 200 pieces, while yellow and rose gold versions will also be offered. Each model retains the iconic Tank aesthetic while incorporating modern functionality.
Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrated its iconic Reverso model with several exceptional releases, including the Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds. This watch features two time displays, one with a classic black dial and the other a vibrant blue, making it a perfect companion for travelers. The brand also introduced the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater, which showcases a new movement and a stunning teal blue grand feu enamel dial.
IWC, known for its pilots watches, unveiled the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month, crafted from black Ceratanium. This model combines a chronograph with a crown-operated perpetual calendar, showcasing IWC’s technical prowess. The Ingenieur Automatic series was also revamped, with models available in 35mm and 40mm sizes, emphasizing precious materials and a contemporary aesthetic.
A. Lange & Söhne presented its Minute Repeater Perpetuel, which combines two of the most challenging complications in horology: a minute repeater and a perpetual calendar. Limited to just 50 pieces, this exquisite timepiece comes in a 950 platinum case and features a power reserve of 72 hours. The brand also introduced the Odysseus Honeygold, a full-bracelet timepiece in a proprietary gold alloy, and the 1815 model, now available in blue dial versions.
Bulgari continues to push boundaries with its Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, now the world’s smallest tourbillon at just 1.85 mm thick. This innovative watch reflects Bulgari’s commitment to micro-watchmaking and showcases the brand’s mastery of design and engineering. Additionally, the Serpenti Aeterna offers a fresh take on the iconic Serpenti motif, featuring a solid bracelet and a stylized representation of the Serpenti head.
Chopard introduced several new models, including the Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS Platinum, which adds heft to its flagship sports collection. This platinum model is priced at $110,500 and features a 41 mm case size and a power reserve of 65 hours. The brand also unveiled the L.U.C Quattro, celebrating its 25th anniversary with a refreshed design and a remarkable nine-day power reserve.
Montblanc showcased its 1858 Split Second Chrono, a limited edition inspired by vintage military chronographs. This monopusher chronograph pays homage to the brand’s heritage while incorporating modern design elements. Additionally, the 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar stands out for its minimalist aesthetic, featuring a rotating globe and a new Minerva movement.
Grand Seiko introduced the Spring Drive U.F.A. SLBG001, claiming to be the most accurate mechanical timepiece on the market today with a movement accuracy of ±15 seconds per year. This limited edition is powered by the new Spring Drive caliber 9RB2 and is available in platinum and titanium models.
Hublot continued its exploration of materials with the Big Bang Unico Water Blue Sapphire, limited to 50 pieces and featuring a striking blue hue. The brand also introduced the Big Bang Master of Sapphire Set, comprising five models that highlight Hublot’s expertise in color and material innovation, with a price tag of $605,000 for the set.
As Watches & Wonders 2025 unfolds, it’s clear that the event not only honors the rich history of watchmaking but also embraces innovation and creativity, captivating collectors and enthusiasts with each new release. From Zenith’s anniversary collection to Cartier’s digital revival, this year’s show promises to leave a lasting impression on the world of horology.
