Bethlehem marked another somber Christmas Eve on December 24, 2023, as the traditional birthplace of Jesus remained overshadowed by the persistent conflict in Gaza. The excitement and cheer typically associated with Christmas celebrations were noticeably absent this year. The festive lights and the giant tree, which usually adorn Manger Square, were nowhere to be found, stripping away the festive charm of this holy city.
The annual influx of tourists and pilgrims, which typically elevates the spirit of the season, has diminished drastically. Palestinian scouts, who would normally provide vibrant musical parades, marched silently through the streets, some holding banners stating, “We want life, not death.” This departure from tradition highlights the changing atmosphere and the current state of affairs.
“Always the message of Bethlehem is a message of peace and hope,” said Mayor Anton Salman. He emphasized the dual message being sent to the world—both hope and a call for action to alleviate the suffering of the Palestinian people. With unemployment rising to around 50%, higher than the 30% average across the rest of the West Bank, the cancellation of Christmas festivities imposes significant economic strain on the town.
Tourism, which comprises roughly 70% of Bethlehem’s economy, relies heavily on the Christmas season, making the absence of festivities particularly devastating. The number of visitors has plummeted from about 2 million annually pre-COVID to under 100,000 expected this year, according to Jiries Qumsiyeh, spokesperson for the Palestinian Tourism Ministry.
Meanwhile, the Latin Patriarch Pierbattista Pizzaballa, the top Roman Catholic cleric in the Holy Land, remarked on the stark scene of shuttered shops and desolate streets. “This has to be the last Christmas that's so sad,” he told the gathered crowd, who stood as shadows of the thousands who would usually congregate. He conveyed greetings to the beleaguered populace of Gaza, sharing his firsthand observations from the recently devastated region.
Pizzaballa noted, “I saw everything destroyed, poverty, disaster, but I also saw life. They don't give up, so we don't give up.” His words resonate amid reports of the humanitarian crisis flourishing across Gaza, where more than 45,000 Palestinians have been reported dead due to the conflict, and the vast majority of the region’s population has been displaced.
While the spirits were low, prayers and religious observances continued. Observers gathered at the Church of the Nativity, but with far fewer than the typically festive congregation. “Christmas is a feast of faith... We're going to pray and ask God to end our suffering,” said Salman, highlighting the community's reliance on their faith during trying times.
The conflict has also exacerbated violence across the West Bank, with more than 800 Palestinians killed and numerous Israeli fatalities due to militant attacks. Restrictions on movement due to heightened security measures have made it more difficult for Palestinians, with long lines at military checkpoints becoming commonplace.
This year’s Christmas could hardly be seen as festive elsewhere either. Thousands of Christians across the Middle East faced similar challenges. George al-Sayegh, seeking refuge at the Greek Orthodox Church of Saint Porphyrius in Gaza, lamented, “This Christmas carries the stench of death and destruction.” His somber reflections mirror the feelings of many this year as festive cheer has been overshadowed by uncertainty and loss.
The echoes of conflict stretched beyond Bethlehem and Gaza, causing disruptions and protests elsewhere. Christians gathered en masse on the streets of Damascus, Syria, to protest the burning of a Christmas tree, reflecting the growing tensions within communities already affected by the turmoil of governance and sectarian strife.
Despite the darkened atmosphere, there were still moments of reflection and hopefulness. Pope Francis, leading Christmas mass from the Vatican, urged Catholics to reflect on the consequences of war, mentioning, “Think of the wars, of the machine-gunned children, of the bombs on schools or hospitals.” His remarks serve as poignant reminders of the broader humanitarian crises impacting Christians across the Middle East.
With hearts entwined by suffering, the spirit of Bethlehem this Christmas remains heavy but resilient, as its residents continue to yearn for peace and brighter days to come. They cling to the hope encapsulated within the Christmas message—a hope for life, joy, and lasting peace.
