Paris Fashion Week for Fall/Winter 2025 has undoubtedly made its mark by blending fashion with pressing social issues, reflecting the tumultuous global climate. The event showcased collections laden with political messages, encapsulating artists' spirits amid societal upheaval.
Willy Chavarria made waves with his debut collection, dubbed "Tarantula," which was deeply rooted in Chicano culture and aimed at empowering civil rights. The show concluded on powerful notes, featuring Bishop Mariann Edgar Budde’s inauguration speech. Chavarria conveyed, "Right now the American Dream is simply to preserve our rights as humans, and to be able to afford to live a decent life. I hope my work can touch everybody; I'm not just trying to touch the people who are already on the right side of history," highlighting the emotional connection he seeks through his designs.
Meanwhile, Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Garçons Homme Plus collection took on anti-war sentiments, with distorted military uniforms and floral tributes on combat gear. Likewise, Yohji Yamamoto echoed similar themes, presenting garments adorned with the phrase "sadness and suffering are the flowers of life." Rick Owens introduced his "Concordians" collection, echoing ideas of harmony through predominantly black pieces accented with shades of red, symbolizing love and passion—brilliantly underscoring his aim of promoting peace during turbulent times.
The political nature of fashion does not merely occupy the runway; it drives discussions about broader societal issues such as racism, war, and climate change. The contemporary design philosopher Virgil Abloh once stated, "It's not just fashion for fashion's sake," reminding us of fashion’s intrinsic connection to social commentary.
Shifting gears, the article delves deep also talks about the evolution of body positivity. Once at the forefront of the industry, the movement’s presence seems to be waning, with statistics showing only 0.8% of models across 230 shows recently were plus-sized, as reported by Vogue. Enrika, a 28-year-old plus-sized model, recalled empowerment from the movement, stating, "When the body positivity movement emerged, it felt incredibly empowering and liberatory. It felt like we had had enough of being judged.”
The 2010s saw the body positivity movement thrive, championed significantly by platforms like Instagram, where diversifying beauty standards became increasingly prominent. Brands like Rihanna's Savage x Fenty capitalized on this shift, featuring models of all body types flaunting their curves on runways. Yet, the resurgence of weight loss medications like Ozempic and societal shifts toward slimmer models seem to revisit previous standards.
Reflecting on this trend, Chioma Nnadi, editorial director of British Vogue, pointed out, "We're seeing the pendulum sort of swing back to skinny being 'in,' and it's concerning." A palpable irony marked the runway when Namilia's provocative "I love Ozempic" T-shirt was showcased, satirically calling attention to the increasing reliance on weight loss drugs as influencers and celebrities, such as Elon Musk, publicly endorsed their effectiveness.
Fast-forward to January 2025, as Men's AW25 Fashion Week unfolded. Observers noted the minimal representation of plus-sized models on the runway. Nan Li, creative director of Namilia, lamented, "Paris celebrates elitism, and elitism means skinny and white. A handful of plus-sized models at the shows are not truly plus-sized; they are normal-sized.”
Shaun Beyen, casting director for the French brand Fursac, bluntly commented on the shift back to traditional runway aesthetics, stating, "The only motivation for a brand is to sell clothes. I don't think we need to lie about this." The statement stirred concern among advocates for inclusivity within the fashion community, drawing the reality back to the commercial-driven motives behind casting choices.
Despite some designers trying to champion inclusivity—such as Charles Jeffrey, who noted, "Body positivity was never a trend for me, it was about being responsible"—the sentiment among many insiders leans toward skepticism. The current narrative emphasizes aspirational beauty, leaving models who don't conform to traditional appearances sidelined. Many plus-size models feel cast as tokens, leading to frustrations with double standards often present during advertising campaigns.
Industry veterans are left pondering the consequences of fashion's consumer-driven nature. Beyen reiterated, "Everything is consumer-driven. If people stop producing, people will stop buying," reinforcing the idea of shaping the market through consumer decisions.
The departure of Kim Jones, artistic director of Dior Men, added another layer of conversation during these events. Rumors long swirled about his exit from LVMH, but the confirmation came with his prestigious recognition—awarded the Legion of Honour by Anna Wintour at the recent Paris Fashion Week showcase. His emotional farewell paid tribute to his impactful tenure at Dior.
The glitzy haute couture runway wasn’t only for fashion insiders, as celebrities from around the globe brought their star power to the streets. Famous names like Megan Thee Stallion dazzled the crowds, showcasing her daring looks at the Gaurav Gupta show. The rapper, revered for her vibrant style, stunned onlookers with her fashion sense, effortlessly influencing trends with her presence.
Pharrell Williams, taking charge as Louis Vuitton’s men’s director, navigated the fashion spectrum with his new collection, reminding audiences of his unique contributions to the industry's evolution. These celebrity intersections alongside fashion not only capture moments of brilliance but portray the culture's blend of art and expression.
Paris Fashion Week serves as both mirror and canvas—reflective of society’s current struggles and the artists' envisioning of potential futures. Whether wrestling with inclusivity disputes or new expressions of identity and style, this season's showcase reminds us of fashion's inherent connection to activism and the continual ebb and flow of trends. From politics to body representations, one thing is clear: the world of fashion continues to shape, and be shaped by, the world around it.