Not long after dawn, Japanese sake brewer Mie Takahashi checks the temperature of the mixture fermenting at her family’s 150-year-old sake brewery, Koten, which is located in the stunning foothills of the Japanese Alps. With steady hands, she stands on an uneven narrow wooden platform over a massive tank containing over 3,000 liters of bubbling soup made of steamed rice, water, and koji, the rice mold central to sake production. "The morning hours are crucia l in sake making," said the 43-year-old brewer, whose family has nurtured this craft through generations.
Takahashi is part of a small yet growing group of female toji, or master sake brewers. Notably, only 33 female toji are registered within Japan’s Toji Guild Association, which oversees more than 1,000 breweries across the country. A far cry from the deep-rooted tradition of male dominance, this figure marks significant progress compared to several decades ago when women were largely barred from the brewing industry.
Sake making, which traces its roots back over 1,000 years, is intertwined with Japan’s traditional Shinto religion. Yet, the practice faced considerable gender restrictions from the Edo period (1603-1868) onward, largely due to unspoken rules excluding women from breweries. The underlying reasons for this exclusion remain somewhat obscure. Yasuyuki Kishi, vice director of the Sakeology Center at Niigata University, offers insight: "Women were considered impure because of menstruation and were, therefo re, excluded from sacred spaces." He adds, "Another theory is linked to the heavy labor and dangerous tasks involved, which made the profession seem inappropriate for women."
Despite these challenges, social norms have evolved remarkably over the years. The gradual breakdown of gender barriers, paired with Japan's fast-aging workforce, has opened new opportunities for women within sake production. Takahashi notes the changing perceptions, saying, "It’s still mostly a male-dominated industry. But I think now people focus on whether someone has the passion to do it, regardless of gender." She also emphasizes the role of mechanization—modern technological advancements aiding the brewing process—as pivotal to making the industry more accessible.
At Koten, for example, cranes now lift hundreds of kilograms (pounds) of steamed rice before placing it onto cooling conveyors. Takahashi remarks, "With the help of machines, more tasks are accessible for women." She reflects on the past when everything, from lifting to mixing, had to be done manually, making it physically challenging for many, particularly women.
Sake, also known as nihonshu, is crafted through the fermentation of steamed rice with koji mold, which converts starches to sugars. The ancient brewing technique was recently honored as part of UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage, highlighting its cultural significance. Takahashi reminisces about her childhood, stating, "I was not allowed to enter my family-owned brewery. But when I turned 15, I was finally allowed to take a tour, and it fascinated me to see the bubbling fermentation process. I was captivated by how this fragrant sake could be made from just rice and water."
After earning her degree in fermentation science from the Tokyo University of Agriculture, Takahashi trained for ten years before taking the mantle as the toji at her family brewery at age 34. Today, she manages various seasonal workers, especially during the winter peak season when production intensifies. The work is physically demanding, involving the continual hauling and mixing of large batches of steamed rice and thousands of liters of brew.
To promote harmony and collaboration within her team, Takahashi believes communication is key. She states, "A common saying is if the atmosphere in the brewery is tense, the sake will turn out harsh, but if things are going well, the sake will turn out smooth." This commitment to teamwork is indicative of her nurturing leadership approach, which is particularly refreshing within this long-established industry.
Interestingly, the inclusion of women such as Takahashi may play a significant role in revitalizing the waning Japanese sake industry. After its production peaked during the 1970s, the domestic consumption of sake has been consistently declining. According to the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association, current production volumes are merely a quarter of what they were half a century ago. Faced with this reality, many small breweries, including Koten, are strategizing to broaden their market appeal, both domestically and internationally.
Addressing the contemporary challenges faced by the industry, Takahashi's older brother, Isao Takahashi, remarks, "Our main product has always been dry sake. Local customers still enjoy it, but we’re now venturing to create higher value sake products as well." He supports his sister's innovative spirit, noting how she continually experiments with new brewing techniques. "She wants to try to make lower alcohol content or experiment with new yeast strains. All kinds of new approaches are coming from her," he adds with pride. He also expresses his commitment to see her succeed: "I want to do my best to sell what she creates."
The evolution of women’s roles within Japanese sake brewing not only signals changing societal attitudes but also holds promise for the industry's future. Mie Takahashi and her contemporaries are proud to forge paths where limitations once existed, underscoring their dedicated efforts to preserve this culturally significant legacy.