As far as wine regions go, they're as different as they come. First, warm-climate Hunter Valley - at times stinking hot - is the warmest of the Australian wine regions. And then cool-climate Central Otago - at times downright glacial - is on the southern end of New Zealand's South Island, their coldest wine-growing region. The difference couldn't be more stark. And in the middle, winemaker PJ Charteris, a proud Kiwi who for many years has called the Hunter Valley home, is bridging these two worlds.
From his Charteris Wines Hunter Valley cellar door, PJ and his wife Chrissi have relished the challenge of offering high-quality expressions of the contrasting regions' classic varieties - no easy task. "So for us it's Hunter semillon, chardonnay and shiraz, along with Central Otago pinot noir, riesling and chardonnay," he explained. For creative fun, he produces an easy-drinking La Fauve range (translation: The Wild) where, in his own words, he's "free to roam" other regions for some winemaking adventure.
"Central Otago vintage is about two months after the Hunter, which gives me just enough time to do all my winemaking things here, then jump on a plane and do it all again over there," he said. While others have headed off on holiday, PJ is still hard at work. "My nerdy wine brain loves the unique characteristics of each place - in some ways similar, but in others poles apart," he added.
Last week, a tasting of some of his Hunter and Otago wines, along with a couple of back vintages, revealed the depth of his craft. The Hunt Vineyard Riesling 2013 ($150) from Bannockburn is incredibly youthful for its age. Off-dry, it features lemony/limey acid reminiscent of Bickford's lime cordial, making the sweetness invisible. Still vibrant, it offers hints of ginger and exotic spices, making it a delicious choice.
The Central Otago Chardonnay 2023 ($65) showcases tropical fruit flavors, including rockmelon and pawpaw, and is malo, creamy, and textural. In contrast, the Hunter Chardonnay 2023 ($42) is unusual for the region, leaning more towards ripe stonefruit than citrus, with grilled peaches and nectarines, lees stirring, and a touch of malo for a velvety texture.
In terms of reds, the Central Otago Pinot Noir, 2023 ($55) presents a complex profile with musky perfume, dark cherry, brown spice, licorice, and anise flavors. PJ mentioned, "Chrissi said to make a pinot we could drink every night ... this would be it." The Hunter Shiraz, 2023 ($55), is light on its feet, soft and slippery, with a nose of cinnamon and dark plum, and expressive fruit notes of briary dark cherries and rose petal.
For those interested in older vintages, the Central Otago Pinot Noir, 2009 ($200) is a standout. It has a cherry backbone that remains vibrant, complemented by notes of forest floor, truffles, kirsch, brown sugar, and mushrooms. PJ describes it as having great shape for 16 years, making it a dazzling option.
In addition to his core offerings, PJ also explores the broader Australian landscape. The Logan Ridge of Tears Riesling, 2023 ($60) from Orange comes from small parcels of Logan's finest fruit, grown at 970 meters altitude on the south-facing slopes of Mt Canobolas. This light gold wine is wonderfully expressive, featuring mandarin, lime, and orange blossom scents that lead to mouth-filling flavors of red apple, grapefruit, citrus, and lime. It's a real extrovert, delicious and refreshing.
The Run Free by Singlefile Pinot Grigio, 2024 ($26) from Great Southern stands out with its texture. It's lean and focused, very much in the aperitif style, with a taut, citrussy backbone that oozes bite and freshness. Flavors open mid-palate with green apple and pear emerging, making it one of those easy drinkers you can just sip, relax, and enjoy.
Lastly, the Crittenden Peninsula Pinot Noir, 2023 ($39) is a blend of fruit from across Mornington Peninsula, crafted to produce a vibrant and aromatic wine that reflects the region. It's bright and expressive, almost plush, with generous red cherry and raspberry flavors, complemented by rhubarb and charcuterie highlights. Fine tannins and lively acids provide the finishing touches, making it an excellent pairing with Peking duck pancakes.
Whether it's the warm embrace of Hunter Valley or the cool allure of Central Otago, PJ Charteris is a winemaker at the very top of his game, showcasing the best of both worlds through his wines. His passion for crafting these unique expressions not only highlights the diversity of Australian and New Zealand wines but also invites wine lovers to explore the contrasting flavors that each region has to offer.
