The serene world of plant-based milks has been rocked by a rare and deadly Listeria outbreak in Canada, leaving two dead and dozens more sickened. A dozen confirmed infections, including nine hospitalizations, have plagued multiple provinces. The outbreak’s connection to plant-based milk, a product often hailed as a healthy alternative, has left both consumers and experts in shock.
Last Wednesday, the Public Health Agency of Canada (PHAC) shared an update: Listeria infections had been traced back to several brands of plant-based milk, specifically Silk and Great Value. The contaminated non-dairy beverages included varieties made from almonds, oats, coconuts, and cashews. The Canadian Food Inspection Agency (CFIA) acted fast, issuing a nationwide recall on July 8 that targets 18 beverages with expiry dates extending to October 4. These products were pulled from shelves before more people could fall ill.
"The unusual thing about this is the plant-based milk source of the infections, because people typically think of plant-based milks as a healthy alternative," stated Lori Burrows, a professor of biochemistry and biomedical sciences at McMaster University. Historically, Listeria outbreaks have been linked to deli meats or soft cheeses, never before to non-dairy milk.
While recalling tainted foods is a standard move, the reasoning behind the contamination remains a mystery. Listeria monocytogenes, the culprit behind the illnesses, is a bacterium commonly found in soil. Typically eradicated during food processing, the persistence of Listeria in these beverages points to a possible lapse in sanitation or a post-processing contamination.
Lawrence Goodridge, Director of the Canadian Research Institute for Food Safety at the University of Guelph, pointed out a hypothesis: improperly decontaminated machinery in the processing plants. He mentioned the risk of Listeria spreading from poorly cleaned equipment: "Milks usually undergo a heat treatment to get rid of potential Listeria or any other bacteria, so it’s likely that there was some kind of breakdown in that process."
This outbreak has not only raised alarm bells but also drawn comparisons to historical food safety incidents. In 2008, Canada witnessed its worst listeriosis outbreak with 22 deaths tied to deli meats. The current plant-based milk contamination may not have reached that scale, but it does put a spotlight on the growing popularity and production of these beverages.
The incident has also highlighted a stark contrast in corporate responses. During the 2008 outbreak, Michael McCain, then CEO of Maple Leaf Foods, held regular press conferences to update the public and address the company's missteps. In contrast, Dannon has kept a low profile, limiting its communication to brief statements and social media posts.
For legal reasons, Dannon has refrained from revealing the name of the third-party manufacturing facility responsible for the contaminated products. This lack of transparency frustrates many, including food safety experts. "There’s no transparency whatsoever," said Keith Warriner, a food safety professor at the University of Guelph. Concerns have arisen not just about the current contamination but about the safety of all products from this undisclosed facility.
Dannon’s efforts to expand beyond traditional dairy into plant-based products have paid off financially, but the infection casts a shadow over their success. Since the pandemic, demand for milk substitutes has surged, prompting questions about the regulatory oversight and safety measures in such rapidly expanding markets.
Listeria is not an overt pathogen; it’s sneaky and insidious. Unlike bacteria that might spoil food visibly or give off a foul odor, Listeria can proliferate without any noticeable signs. Symptoms, which include fever, muscle aches, and gastrointestinal distress, can manifest as early as three days after consumption or take as long as two months. For vulnerable populations like pregnant women, the elderly, and immunocompromised individuals, the infection can lead to severe complications such as meningitis and blood poisoning.
From a public health perspective, prevention is key. Experts emphasize the importance of good sanitation practices. Burrows advises, "If you’re sick, you shouldn’t be preparing food for other people." Additionally, the CFIA urges Canadians to check their pantries for any recalled products, given the long shelf life of plant-based milks.
As the investigation continues, more illnesses linked to the contaminated drinks may emerge, given the extended incubation period of Listeria. This underscores the necessity for rigorous food safety protocols and transparent communication to the public.
In the grand scheme, this outbreak serves as a wake-up call. The convenience and popularity of plant-based milks, while promising in many aspects, demand the same level of scrutiny and safety as any other food product. As Burrows eloquently puts it, "The common denominator is always the processing plant." Until the exact cause of contamination is pinpointed and rectified, the recurrent theme remains vigilance and caution for consumers.