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15 November 2024

Tapestry Pulls Out Of Capri Merger Amid Legal Struggles

Companies shift focus to individual growth strategies after FTC intervention blocks agreement

Tapestry and Capri Terminate Merger Amid Regulatory Concerns

NEW YORK – Tapestry, Inc., the parent company of popular brands like Coach and Kate Spade, has formally announced the termination of its proposed merger with Capri Holdings Limited, the parent company of luxury brands including Michael Kors and Versace. This decision follows legal obstacles and concerns surrounding competition laws after the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) expressed its intention to block the $8.5 billion merger.

The announcement was made public on November 14, 2024, just three weeks after a federal judge stepped in with an injunction to halt the merger, citing monopoly concerns due to Tapestry's prior acquisition history—which included Kate Spade and Stuart Weitzman. The judge agreed with the FTC, which claimed the merger would consolidate Tapestry's power too heavily within the luxury handbag market, placing it at risk of unfair competition.

Both companies came to the conclusion to end the merger due to the uncertainty surrounding the legal outcomes and the potential for significant delays. They recognized the need to redirect their focus inward and independently strategize for future growth, amid the current pressures the luxury market is facing.

Joanne Crevoiserat, CEO of Tapestry, remarked, "We have always had multiple paths to growth, and our decision today clarifies the forward strategy. Building on our successful first quarter, we will move with speed and boldness to accelerate growth for our organic business." This sentiment reflects Tapestry's commitment to strengthening its existing brands and enhancing its market position without the merger's distraction.

Notably, Tapestry has announced plans for a significant $2 billion share repurchase program, indicating confidence in its financial health and operational strength. Management's strategy includes focusing on organic brand growth, maximizing returns to shareholders, and sustaining its dividend payout. The company remains optimistic about its long-term potential, supported by its established customer base and financial resilience.

Conversely, Capri Holdings has been battling its set of challenges, with recent fiscal reports showing troubling signs. The company reported a 16.4% drop in revenue for the second quarter of fiscal 2025, attributed largely to slowing consumer demand. John Idol, Chairman and CEO of Capri, acknowledged this tough terrain but highlighted the company's commitment to strategic initiatives aimed at revitalizing its brands—Michael Kors, Versace, and Jimmy Choo—through engaging marketing campaigns and improved product offerings.

Market analysts noted the differing trajectories of the two companies. While Tapestry managed to report stable sales relative to the previous year, Capri seemed entrenched in its troubles. David Swartz, Senior Equity Analyst for Morningstar Research, pointed out the contrasting performances and remarked, "I don’t think the proposed merger had any impact on Coach’s prospects, but the distraction of the merger discussions has impacted Capri significantly."

This termination marks the end of ambitious plans to create one of the largest luxury conglomerates, positioning Tapestry just behind LVMH. Analysts had anticipated substantial synergies and market advantages from the merger—benefits now unraveled by regulatory scrutiny. With the luxury market beginning to exhibit signs of contraction, both companies face distinct challenges moving forward.

Following the decision to terminate the merger, Tapestry and Capri must navigate market pressures independently. Tapestry is poised to prioritize its core brands, solidifying the success of Coach, Kate Spade, and Stuart Weitzman. Meanwhile, Capri will recalibrate its focus around Michael Kors, Versace, and Jimmy Choo. The spotlight now shifts to how effectively each company can pivot from this setback and capitalize on their distinct brand legacies.

Analysts believe both Tapestry and Capri need to prepare for significant changes as they advance. Tapestry's focus on organic growth may see it enhancing brand loyalty and increasing customer engagement through innovative marketing strategies and refreshed product lines.

On the other hand, Capri's job cuts and store closings—measures taken to adjust against the decline—highlight the urgency for transformational strategies. Idol emphasized the importance of creating compelling product offerings and improving consumer connectivity as key to reversing recent downward trends within the company.

The decision has led to mixed responses from investors, reflecting the market's varied expectations of each company’s capabilities post-merger collapse. Tapestry shares climbed over 12% after the announcement, indicating investor approval of the company’s independent strategy, whereas Capri's shares saw moderate increases as it seeks to stabilize its operations.

This merger termination could also have larger ramifications within the luxury retail sector. Industry watchers will likely monitor how these top-tier brands adapt to ever-shifting consumer demands and competitive landscapes. For now, Tapestry and Capri must figure out their next moves without the umbrella of their once-aspired merger. The road ahead may include challenging hurdles, but each company promises to tackle them head-on.

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