LONDON – A sweeping change is about to reshape the heart of the British capital with the impending closure of the iconic Smithfield and Billingsgate markets. The City of London Corporation, which manages these historic sites, has announced plans to shutter both markets by 2028, ending nearly 850 years of continuous meat trading at Smithfield and closing the doors on London's last major fish market, Billingsgate.
The decision follows years of debates over the practicality of maintaining these operations amid the growth of supermarket chains and changing consumer habits. Industry veterans, including Greg Lawrence, the chairman of Smithfield Market Tenants, have expressed mixed feelings. "I’ve been at Smithfield since I was 16. It’s the only place I’ve ever worked. It’s historic and known worldwide – but I understand it's the right move," Lawrence stated emotionally as he acknowledged the challenges posed by increasing traffic and operational difficulties.
Smithfield Market, established as far back as 1174, has served as the backdrop for London’s meat trading traditions. King Edward III granted the City of London the right to operate the market in 1327, cementing its role in the city’s commercial life. Built during the Victorian era, the current market structure is magnificent, featuring expansive public halls and railway tracks originally used for transporting livestock. Yet, as highlighted by commentators like journalist Simon Jenkins, the market's functionality has become outdated.
This change is not without its consequences. Local butchers and chefs are lamenting the loss of this culinary cornerstone. John Burt, who has run his shop near Smithfield for decades, reflected on the market's decline: “You wouldn’t have thought Smithfield would ever shut down because it’s been around since the time of Henry VIII.” He, like many others, is worried about the future of meat trading practices. “It’s going to be difficult to find another place to do what we’ve done here so seamlessly,” he added.
The community surrounding Smithfield is also bracing for the transition. Nearby cafes and restaurants, which depend on early morning trade with the market, are likely to suffer. Chefs, like Andy Beynon of restaurant Behind, voiced their sorrow over the impending closure. "The earlier you go to Smithfield, the more choices you have. It’s always been about the banter with traders and the quality of product available at such early hours,” Beynon shared.
Meanwhile, plans to move both Smithfield and Billingsgate markets to Dagenham, East London, have been abandoned due to rising costs estimated at £1 billion. Critics have argued against the City of London Corporation's decision, insisting it fails to address the potential adverse effects on food security throughout the capital. Chris Hayward, the policy chairman of the corporation, attempted to frame the closure as beneficial, calling it “a positive new chapter for Smithfield and Billingsgate markets,” emphasizing the shift would empower local traders to forge sustainable business paths.
They’re promising compensation for relocating businesses, which could total as much as £300 million, but many traders fear the shift will disrupt established networks and customer bases. Laurence argued, “We’re not silly people; we know this is what’s best for tenants, but it’s tough to see the market go.”
Although Smithfield will remain operational until its closure, the architectural significance and historical value of the market evoke deep nostalgia. Placards recount the market's layered history, marked by events like the execution of Scottish national hero William Wallace and the public burnings during Queen Mary I’s reign. The next chapter for Smithfield may well turn its storied past on its head as development plans loom to transform the site possibly for office spaces and residences.
The who, what, and where of Smithfield's closure resonates beyond the traders. The conservationists have urged for preservation efforts to transform Smithfield from functioning market to cultural landmark, akin to what was done with Covent Garden. Yet, some view the demolition of such historical sites as symptomatic of London’s contemporary urban displacement and gentrification, possibly erasing the very fabric of local culinary culture.
Tony Travers, professor of politics and urban planning at the London School of Economics, believes the City of London Corporation should tread carefully. He points out how the abandonment of once-cherished projects, like the much-coveted new concert hall for the London Symphony Orchestra, reflects on broader issues of development. “This just proves there is still a limit to what they can achieve,” he noted.
The impact is already felt by the local populace who frequented Smithfield, where the pulse of London’s culinary scene thrived through perpetual trade. One butcher’s son recalled watching his father work there, nostalgically stating, “Many of the people here are local. They’ve only known market life. It’s the end of the work life I know.” Documents detailing Smithfield’s closure are expected to be finalized soon, with discussions ranging from relocation to new sites to financial aid for displaced workers. The City of London assures traders it will provide guidance to navigate this transition.
While some hope for repurposed architectural space reminiscent of London’s vibrant culture, doubts linger. With urban life leaning increasingly toward 24-hour operations and supermarkets stacking shelves full of meat products sourced from distant locations, many Londoners are now questioning whether they’ll miss these historic markets once they’re gone.
Indeed, food writers and critics express concerns about the future food scene. "Losing Smithfield might prove to be a damning moment for local culinary innovation," remarked Drew Snaith of the Sesta restaurant, summarizing collective sentiment. There’s the sense of losing more than just buildings; it’s the potential loss of culinary community, culture, and richness woven deep within the bones of London’s history.
For now, the traders and the city brace for change. The echoes of Smithfield’s past still hum within its vast expanse, but optimism about how this space might transform post-2028 is met with caution. One question lingers: does London have the appetite to let go of its historic markets for the promise of modernity, or will it seek to embrace both elements responsibly and preserve the essence of what has made it vibrant all along?
