On February 2, 2025, Japan will observe Setsubun, marking the transition between winter and spring. This celebration, traditionally taking place on February 3, has been moved forward this year due to the timing of the first day of spring, known as Risshun. On Setsubun, it is customary to partake of ehō-maki, special sushi rolls to be eaten facing the auspicious direction determined by Japanese tradition.
Historically, Setsubun is tied to the practice of driving away evil spirits, or demons, to bring good luck for the year. This is often done through the throwing of roasted soybeans, but specifics can vary. Interestingly, certain family names, like Watanabe and Sakata, have the lore surrounding them, which implies one's descendants do not need to participate in the bean-throwing tradition, as demons reportedly fear members of these clans.
For 2025, the auspicious direction, or ehō, is set to be West-Southwest (Nishinan-sei). This direction is determined by the Japanese zodiac and ties back to historical practices based on the Chinese philosophy of the Elements, namely the Toshi Tokujin, or the year god. Observers believe eating ehō-maki, or ‘fortune rolls’, facing this specific direction will summon good luck and ward off negativity.
Many families across Japan partake of this tradition, particularly those residing in the Kansai region, where the practice originated. Engaging with the food, families will eat the rolls without cutting them, signifying the desire to maintain connections and good fortune throughout the year. This practice is steeped not only in culinary significance but also brings families together for the festivities.
A survey conducted by Weather News illustrated the popularity of ehō-maki, with over 50 percent of respondents planning to include them as part of their Setsubun meals. The survey details geographic discrepancies, highlighting how tradition has taken hold more vigorously in Kansai compared to regions like Kanto, where the practice has not been as widely embraced.
Notably, the seven ingredients typically found within ehō-maki are said to symbolize the Seven Fortune Gods, playing on the beliefs surrounding ample fortune and prosperity typical of the holiday. These ingredients often include items like high-protein fried tofu, kanpyō (dried gourd strips), shiitake mushrooms, cucumber, tamagoyaki (Japanese omelet), eel, and sweet fish flakes, creating not only diversity of taste but also connecting those who partake to traditional narratives of luck and fortune.
This year, the integration of contemporary recipes has led to innovative twists on the classic ehō-maki. Culinary enthusiasts have been introducing fillings ranging from seafood to creative interpretations including Chinese-style accouterments like spicy shrimp or meat mixes, showcasing the versatility and adaptability of culinary traditions.
Modern ehō-maki celebrations often feature heightened recognition of individual taste preferences, with some families opting to create personalized rolls with their favorite fillings. Social media platforms now harbor numerous recipe-sharing opportunities, sparking excitement around Setsubun dishes even among younger generations who may not have grown up with the tradition.
Guidelines on how to fulfill the ehō-maki consumption ritual dictate not only eating silently to concentrate on one’s wishes but also ensuring the roll is not cut before consumption. This guarantees continuity of luck throughout the year. Some traditionalists believe additional practices, such as consuming alcohol facing the ehō direction or drinking special teas made from roasted beans, can amplify the health benefits and prosperity intended through these rituals.
While modern settings allow large retailers and restaurants to provide expansive options for those wishing to experience Setsubun, there remains value placed on the home-cooked authenticity of ehō-maki. Households are encouraged to engage with this celebratory process, as preparing food can be as rewarding as consuming it.
On this Setsubun, as families unite under the auspicious West-Southwest direction and break bread—or sushi—together, they echo centuries-old customs rooted deeply within Japan's cultural consciousness. The act of eating ehō-maki serves as more than just nourishment; it encapsulates the very essence of family, togetherness, and the hopeful aspirations for the coming year.