Sabyasachi Mukherjee, one of India's most celebrated fashion designers, marked the monumental 25th anniversary of his eponymous label with an extravagant show at Mumbai’s Jio World Centre on January 25, 2025. Celebrated guests, including Bollywood star Deepika Padukone and iconic model Christy Turlington, gathered alongside around 600 other attendees to witness the extravagant event.
Mukherjee, who believes strongly in the potential of Indian luxury, stated, "We firmly believe India is not a third-world economy but a first-world civilisation. It is the birthplace of luxury. Together, we will create India’s first global luxury brand.” His deep-rooted connection to Kolkata, the city of his birth, infused the evening’s theme, creating a nostalgic backdrop reminiscent of North Calcutta.
The show featured models adorned in 150 diverse looks, showcasing everything from crafted saris and dazzling evening gowns to pin-striped suits. This vast array was not just clothing; it was crafted art, made primarily using fabrics sourced from West Bengal, Mongolia, and France. Guests were treated to visual and sensory experiences, including Bengali music, which set the mood as attendees entered the venue, leaving behind lavish grazing tables laden with gourmet offerings.
Upon entering, guests found themselves transported to old-world Calcutta, complete with green shutters, iron railings, and even a water fountain reminiscent of the Victoria Memorial, but uniquely adorned with tigers, aptly representing Mukherjee’s royal brand logo.
Among the glittering attendees were Bollywood A-listers such as Alia Bhatt and Aditi Rao Hydari, who both wore the designer’s creations at their weddings. Kumar Mangalam Birla, who acquired a 51% stake in the brand through his company, Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Ltd, also made his presence felt, accompanied by his daughter.
The evening was not just about the fashion; it also highlighted Mukherjee’s influential work within the jewellery sector, which he entered quietly but swiftly established. Critics have noted how his pieces, once dismissed as mere flashy adornments, have become synonymous with precision and heritage craftsmanship. His jewels have graced red carpets worldwide, charming celebrities such as Rihanna, Jennifer Lopez, and Sharukh Khan.
Mukherjee remarked on the values instilled by his grandmothers: "My grandmothers were the two most significant influences in my life — one taught me the power of minimalism, the other taught me the exuberance of maximalism." This dichotomy was visually represented on the runway, combining elements of both minimal and maximal aesthetics beautifully.
The grand finale saw Christy Turlington closing the show, with her wearing cashmere paired with classic jewellery pieces, encapsulating the essence of Sabyasachi’s design philosophy. This moment, alongside the luxurious presentation of the garments, exemplified the fusion of rich tradition with modern luxury.
Today, the Sabyasachi brand stands as a synthesis of three primary offerings: demi-couture clothing, luxe accessories, and exquisite high jewellery. From humble beginnings with only three employees and investment of Rs 20,000, the brand has now expanded to employ over 3,000 artisans across the country, operating flagship stores not just within India, but reaching as far as New York City.
Mukherjee's brand continues to see significant financial success, with projected revenues expected to reach Rs 500 crore this year. He aims to refine his craft and focus on producing unique handmade products, offering notable detail and emotional connection to buyers. "Over the next 25 years, I intend to hone my craft by focusing on intricacies like diamonds on the reverse of necklace backs and beautiful hand-quilted silk linings," he said.
The runway show itself was dazzling with visual opulence featuring tall statues of tigers, numerous life-sized sculptures made by indigenous artisans, and extravagant decor, replete with history and meaning. Social media exploded with excitement, showcasing high-profile guests and the sumptuous event ambience, leaving many who missed it filled with envy.
Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s celebration was more than just the showcase of his brand; it was a declaration of the artistry of Indian fashion on the global stage. It reaffirmed his position and influence not just as a designer but as a purveyor of India's cultural heritage in ever-expanding international realms.
This grand celebration served to reflect on both the past 25 years and the promising future of Sabyasachi’s creations, marked by his sustained dedication to quality, craftsmanship, and the essence of India itself.