After only two years at the helm, Sabato De Sarno is taking his final bow as the creative director of Gucci, marking the end of his rather brief yet impactful tenure at the renowned fashion house.
Gucci announced De Sarno's departure earlier this week, with the upcoming Fall/Winter 2025 collection being prepared solely by the design office rather than under the creative direction of his successor, who is yet to be named. This announcement has stirred significant interest and speculation within the fashion world.
Stefano Cantino, CEO of Gucci, expressed gratitude for De Sarno’s contributions, stating, "I would like to express my deep gratitude to Sabato for his passion and dedication to Gucci. I sincerely appreciate how he honored Gucci’s craftsmanship and heritage with such commitment." This reflects the appreciation for De Sarno's efforts during his leadership, even though his time was marked by challenges.
De Sarno joined Gucci as creative director in January 2023, taking over from Alessandro Michele, who had stood at the creative helm for seven years. The move was anticipated to re-energize the brand after Michele's floral maximalism, with De Sarno opting instead for a sleeker, more seductive approach to the label's aesthetic.
During his tenure, De Sarno introduced the 'Ancora Red', which has quickly become the brand's signature color. His debut collection emphasized “the joy of life”, intertwining elegance with contemporary flair—a concept he substantiated through various shows and items within the brand.
Despite these initiatives, De Sarno's time at Gucci was not without complications. Multiple reports indicated falling sales and weak market performance were challenging factors he faced. Gucci saw losses of 25 percent reported during the final quarter of 2024, which undoubtedly set the stage for this recent leadership change.
The news of his exit has shocked industry insiders, coinciding with several high-profile departures and transitions within the luxury fashion sector recently. Just last week, Kim Jones announced his exit from Dior Homme, contributing to a growing list of shifts within prominent fashion houses.
Francesca Bellettini, Kering Deputy CEO, also recognized De Sarno’s role, stating, "I sincerely thank Sabato for his loyalty and professionalism. I am proud of the work... to guide Gucci toward renewed fashion leadership and sustainable growth." This acknowledgment showcases the depth of respect for his contributions, even as the brand seeks to navigate through turbulent times.
Looking forward, the upcoming Milan Fashion Week is set to showcase Gucci's F/W 2025 collection on February 25, led by the design office. The anticipation for how Gucci will manage this transition is palpable as investors and fashion enthusiasts alike remain eager to learn who will fill the creative director role next.
De Sarno’s time with Gucci will be remembered not just for his achievements but also the broader industry shakeup it reflects. With his departure, questions loom about the future creative direction of Gucci and how this might align with current market trends amid fluctuative consumer demands.
Although De Sarno's departure adds another chapter to Gucci’s storied history, it also highlights the fate of the luxury fashion industry at large, characterized by rapid cycles of reinvention. The next steps taken by Gucci will be closely monitored as Stefano Cantino and the Kering leadership team work to capitalize on De Sarno's contributions and to set the stage for Gucci's future direction.