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15 December 2024

Reviving Tradition: Fourth-Generation Female Entrepreneur Leads Tamagoyaki Business

Kanako Yamakawa blends innovation with tradition at Yamakawa Brewing Company to promote Tamari soy sauce culture.

Kanako Yamakawa, the fourth-generation entrepreneur of Yamakawa Brewing Company, is on a mission to revitalize her family's Tamagoyaki business, bridging the gap between tradition and modern culinary culture. Born in Gifu City, Gifu Prefecture, Japan, Kanako’s decision to lead the family business is deeply rooted in her upbringing and passion for traditional Japanese food.

Yamakawa Brewing Company, established since 1943, specializes in Tamari soy sauce, which is known for its rich flavor profile and unique production process. Tamari sauce, especially prevalent in the Tokai region, uses nearly 100% soybeans, resulting in its signature thick consistency and umami taste. Kanako reflects the family's dedication to this craft, stating, "I believe we can revive the culture of cooking with Tamari soy sauce!"

Kanako graduated from Nagoya City University with a degree in economics but spent time working for a food trading company in Tokyo, where she handled North American soy imports. Yet her professional path took an unexpected turn after personal circumstances, including family health issues, prompted her return to Gifu City.

Returning to her hometown, Kanako joined Yamakawa Brewing Company, under the guidance of her father, the third-generation owner. She quickly immersed herself in the traditional methods of crafting Tamari soy sauce, balancing her newfound responsibilities with innovative marketing strategies focused on e-commerce and community engagement.

Throughout the years, Kanako has implemented various initiatives to promote learned recipes using her Tamari soy sauce. One of her successful projects includes the introduction of culinary tours, allowing locals and tourists alike to experience the traditional brewing methods and the unique flavors of her products. Kanako noted, "This soy sauce has been used by one customer for 50 years. I want to make sure it can be enjoyed for another 50!" This anecdote highlights her commitment to sustaining the family tradition and ensuring its relevance to future generations.

The thriving soy sauce made from traditional wooden barrels is facing challenges as its market share continues to decline, representing about 1% of soy sauce production across Japan. Kanako has taken initiatives to address this by collaborating with 28 other companies operating similar artisan practices, aiming to improve the visibility and appreciation of wood-aged soy sauces. Activities such as participating at events like FOODEX JAPAN 2024 have helped her expand outreach and advocate for the unique characteristics of Tamari.

Innovative and passionate, Kanako actively engages with her family’s legacy. Supporting initiatives with her fellow artisans, she expressed, "I strive to connect and see what can be done together to promote our unique soy sauces." This reflects her commitment not only to her family's brand but to the concept of collaboration within the industry aimed at keeping traditional Japanese food culture alive.

Her enthusiasm for culinary arts also extends beyond business. Kanako balances her professional life with hobbies like hiking and attending music festivals, providing her with necessary energy and inspiration for her work. Her well-rounded character enriches her approach toward the family business. "I find joy and excitement even amid difficulties, and I want to highlight the fun aspects I discover in my work," she says, portraying her resilience and adaptability.

Kanako’s efforts resonate beyond just promoting Tamari soy sauce. She acknowledges the importance of educating younger generations on traditional Japanese cooking practices and ingredients, seeking to reignite local interest and appreciation for the culinary heritage. She aims to influence her peers, noticing the declining use of Tamari even among her contemporaries. "The flavor depth and versatility of Tamari are rewards from extending the cooking possibilities," she declares with determination.

Through her dedication and innovative initiatives, Kanako Yamakawa is not only upholding her family's rich history but also encouraging cultural sustainability. Her passionate efforts strive to create lasting connections between traditional practices and the modern culinary world, making her tamagoyaki business an emblem of heritage and renewal. With each drop of her carefully crafted Tamari soy sauce, Kanako serves not only dishes but stories of tradition and innovation, ensuring her family’s legacy continues to thrive.

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