Patek Philippe, one of the most esteemed names in luxury watchmaking, recently found itself at the center of considerable controversy with the launch of its new Cubitus collection. This collection, touted as the brand's first major release of watches in 25 years, has drawn mixed reactions from horology enthusiasts worldwide. The heart of the debate is the perceived design similarities between the new models and Patek's iconic Nautilus series, leading to questions about originality and creative direction within the esteemed Swiss luxury brand.
The Cubitus, which features both square shapes with rounded corners and larger sizes compared to earlier models, has sparked discussions about whether it is simply riding on the coattails of the popular Nautilus, which was retired by the brand back in 2021. Critics have accused Patek of playing it safe by introducing what they see as derivative designs rather than venturing truly new paths. Patek Philippe President Thierry Stern responded vigorously to this criticism, calling those who dislike the Cubitus "haters" and dismissing assertions it’s merely a "twin" of the Nautilus. "I'm used to it. It doesn't bother me," he said, emphasizing his belief in the new line's unique identity and sincere connection to the historical essence of the brand.
At the launch event for the Cubitus held in Munich on October 17, the atmosphere was charged with anticipation. With a noted departure from the brand's traditional, more formal events, the invitees were welcomed to dress casually, underscoring Patek's attempt to reach new audiences—particularly younger men who may have felt alienated by the brand's previous offerings. The Cubitus aims to set itself apart not only through its square case measuring 45mm but also by serving the “under 40” demographic who find pieces like the Nautilus prohibitively expensive.
Adding to the intrigue surrounding the Cubitus line is its price tag, which begins around $40,000. Critics raise eyebrows at this figure, especially as it competes with the cost of some luxury vehicles, leaving some to question whether the collection's appeal can stretch beyond affluent buyers. Despite the skepticism, Stern remains confident, pointing to what he believes is the watch's future appreciation as collectors mature. "The haters are mostly people who have never had a Patek and never will," he asserted.
Beyond the criticism of its design, Patek Philippe's new collection has found itself intertwined with larger conversations about the current state of the luxury watch market. A downturn has been noted by many industry insiders, with watch sales softening after the pandemic-era boom. Stern, calling it merely a "slowdown" rather than a full-blown crisis, still admits challenges, saying he plans to steer the company carefully through these turbulent waters.
The Cubitus lineup includes various references with unique features, but one of the standout pieces is the reference 5822P. This watch features not only the square design but also enamel dials and hand-engraved detail drawing inspiration from Māori motifs, marking the first time Patek Philippe has offered such engravings on their watches. Together with location-specific features aimed at enhancing its elite status as the sole piece similar to the delineation of the Nautilus, the 5822P faces immense expectations as it enters the auction world soon.
On November 25, the hand-crafted 5822P will be up for auction at the Children Action gala, with offers expected to surpass $6.5 million, owing to the exclusivity and charity outreach tied to its sale. This initiative highlights the brand’s legacy of giving back; Patek Philippe has partnered with the charity for nearly two decades, previously donating notable items like the Ref. 5720T Perpetual Calendar Chronograph.
While purists may be divided about the direction the brand is taking with its new models, many industry experts believe the mere fact Patek Philippe is stirring debate indicates its enduring relevance and the passion it ignites among watch collectors globally. This collection has not only presented new watches but also engaged collectors and enthusiasts alike to reflect on what they expect from such high-end luxury offerings.
For many, Patek Philippe is more than just timekeeping; it is about heritage and legacy. The storm of debates surrounding the Cubitus collection reminds us of how deeply the world of horology resonates with its followers. Patek Philippe's willingness to innovate even amid criticism demonstrates its commitment to evolve and cater to new generations of watch enthusiasts, marking perhaps not just the end of one era but the potential beginning of another.
