The luxury watch industry is currently buzzing with excitement—and controversy—over the recent launch of the Patek Philippe Cubitus collection. This line marks the brand's first new release in 25 years, and within just weeks, its timepieces are drawing both strong interest and sharp criticism.
The Patek Philippe Cubitus features square cases, which has sparked conversation among enthusiasts. Critically, the flagship model, the ref. 5822P-001, is highlighted by its complicated mechanics and elegant design, reminiscent of the brand's Nautilus series from 1976. Yet, not everyone is thrilled. Whispers of lackluster aesthetics have clouded the collection's reputation, leading to mixed reactions from fans and critics alike.
Launched with much fanfare, the Cubitus buttons up against classic watch design norms. Thierry Stern, President of Patek Philippe, boldly brushes off the negativity, stating, "The haters are mostly people who have never had a Patek and never will." His confidence rests firmly on the craftsmanship and artistry behind the pieces, insisting they possess their unique identity rather than echoing older models.
Despite the backlash, the Cubitus collection is proving to be anything but unpopular on the market. The auction record already reflects the demand, with one piece fetching $112,500 shortly after its release—nearly double its retail price of around $61,275. This early success begs the question, can this potentially divisive watch become a classic?
The collection includes three models: the flagship ref. 5822P-001 crafted from platinum, as well as time-only versions ref. 5821/1A-001 made from steel, and ref. 5821/1AR-001, which features two-tone steel and rose gold. Early listings for these watches issued by dealers suggest prices may rise even higher, reaching $130,000 for select bi-color pieces.
One well-known watch designer pointedly critiqued the Cubitus, claiming, "The layout of the elements on the dial is not pleasing. It does not feel balanced." Such reviews highlight the challenges facing the design team at Patek Philippe, which must navigate consumer sentiment amid industry expectations. A secondary watch market, especially platforms like Chrono24, are already flooded with listings reflecting potential speculative buying.
Interestingly, some enthusiasts draw parallels between the Cubitus and the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1, celebrated for its design harmony. The Lange 1 employs the golden ratio to arrange its components, creating beauty through mathematical proportions. This juxtaposition raises eyebrows as the Cubitus employs more random shapes, provoking questions on modern design principles and consumer acceptance.
Catchy yet filled with judgments, Patek Philippe’s launch strategy seems to have succeeded on one front—prompting discussions. While Stern has pushed back against his brand’s critics, acknowledging their existence as part of the industry, onlookers will be tuning in closely to see how the broader market responds to the Cubitus line long-term.
For some casual observers, the excitement of owning one of these watches supersedes any design critiques. Speculative buyers are already on the hunt for lower prices amid growing listings, indicating the interest is not only alive but teeming with energy. Yet only time will reveal if the Cubitus will settle firmly as a classic or remain highlighted as merely ambitious.
Stay tuned as this watch story continues to evolve, shaping consumer culture and challenging expectations within the luxury watch community.
