NEW YORK (AP) — A buzz of excitement fills the air as the 2025 Met Gala approaches, set to take place on Monday, May 5, at the iconic Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. This year’s theme, "Superfine: Tailoring Black Style," pays homage to Black dandyism, exploring the significance of clothing and style in shaping Black identities throughout the Atlantic diaspora.
Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour continues her long-standing tradition of overseeing the event, which serves as a fundraiser for the museum's Costume Institute. The gala will kick off with guest arrivals from 5:30 p.m. ET to 8 p.m. ET, followed by a livestream broadcast on YouTube and other platforms starting at 6 p.m. ET.
The theme, inspired by Monica L. Miller's 2009 book, "Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity," will be reflected in an exhibition on view from May 10 to October 26. This marks the first time in over 20 years that menswear will be the sole focus of a Met Gala exhibit, a significant step towards diversifying the museum's exhibitions and collections.
“It’s very much about making fashion at The Met more of a gateway to access and inclusivity,” said Andrew Bolton, the head curator. The exhibition will showcase garments, paintings, photographs, and visual works from various artists, including Torkwase Dyson and Tyler Mitchell, all exploring the indelible style of Black dandies from the 18th century to the present day.
Black dandyism, which emerged as far back as the 1700s, is characterized by an intense focus on aesthetics and personal style. It began when enslaved people were dressed in expensive clothing to flaunt their owners' wealth, leading to a unique intersection of African and European style traditions. Miller notes that Black dandyism has evolved into a form of resistance against societal limitations related to race, class, gender, and sexuality.
“Dandyism can seem frivolous, but it often poses a challenge to or a transcendence of social and cultural hierarchies,” Miller explained. The exhibition will be divided into 12 sections: Ownership, Presence, Distinction, Disguise, Freedom, Champion, Respectability, Jook, Heritage, Beauty, Cool, and Cosmopolitanism.
One of the standout designers featured in the exhibit is Jacques Agbobly, a Brooklyn-based fashion designer who has been invited to showcase two of his designs. Agbobly, who grew up in Togo, expressed his excitement about being part of such a prestigious event. “I was just floored with excitement,” he said in an interview. “I had to check to make sure it was from an official email.” His bright-colored ensemble, inspired by the hues of bags used by West African migrants, will be displayed alongside a denim suit adorned with crystals and beads.
The exhibit opens with a powerful section titled "Ownership," featuring livery coats worn by enslaved individuals. One coat, crafted from purple velvet and trimmed with gold metallic threading, exemplifies the lavishness intended to reflect the wealth of its owner. Another coat, made of tan broadcloth, was likely worn by an enslaved child in Louisiana just before the Civil War.
In the "Disguise" section, contemporary pieces from the label Off-White challenge traditional gender roles, showcasing embroidered jackets on female mannequins. This section also includes historical newspaper ads that advertised rewards for capturing runaway enslaved people, often noting their fondness for dress, highlighting the duality of clothing as both a means of identity concealment and liberation.
The exhibition will also feature portraits of successful Black men from the early 19th century, showcasing the beginnings of a Black middle and upper-middle class in America. W.E.B. Du Bois, a prominent civil rights activist, is noted for his impeccable style, with items on display including receipts from tailors in London and Brooks Brothers.
Additionally, Frederick Douglass, a renowned abolitionist and writer, will be represented with his tailcoat and accessories, illustrating the importance of personal style in projecting respectability.
As the gala approaches, anticipation builds not only for the exhibition but for the red carpet itself, where stars will interpret the theme through their fashion choices. This year’s dress code, "Tailored for You," encourages guests to don impeccably fitted clothing that reflects their personal style.
The event will be co-chaired by notable figures including A$AP Rocky, Colman Domingo, Lewis Hamilton, and Pharrell Williams, with LeBron James serving as an honorary co-chair. The host committee includes a diverse array of celebrities, such as Janelle Monáe, Usher, and André 3000, all known for their bold fashion statements.
As the Met Gala continues to evolve, it remains a critical platform for discussing cultural and historical narratives through the lens of fashion. This year’s theme not only celebrates Black dandyism but also highlights the ongoing conversation about identity, representation, and the transformative power of clothing.
With the gala just around the corner, fashion enthusiasts and the general public alike are eager to see how the stars will interpret the theme and contribute to the rich tapestry of Black style and identity.
