Menswear fashion is undergoing a profound transformation, evolving far beyond traditional boundaries to become a dynamic canvas for new aesthetics and social meanings. Across Italy’s fashion capitals, Florence and Milan, designers and brands are boldly challenging longstanding stereotypes by introducing fluid silhouettes, unexpected colors, and innovative details that were once unthinkable. This revolution in menswear reflects broader societal shifts around masculinity, freedom of expression, and the role of the contemporary man.
At the heart of this movement are two pivotal events: the 108th edition of Pitti Uomo in Florence and the Milan Men Fashion Week, which together have set the tone for Spring-Summer 2026 menswear trends. Pitti Uomo’s theme, “Bikester,” epitomizes the new aesthetic—fluid, sustainable, dynamic, and perfectly in sync with today’s desire for lightness, movement, and versatility. The event was more than a showcase of colors or cuts; it was a declaration of how men want to dress and express their personalities in an era marked by openness and individuality.
One of the dominant themes emerging from Pitti is a calibrated return to sartorial classicism, but with a relaxed, modern twist. Jackets are unlined, trousers lengthen yet soften, and luxury knitwear continues to be refined by stalwarts like Brunello Cucinelli and Kiton. Meanwhile, Caruso and Herno are evolving traditional suits toward more fluid fits, and L.B.M.1911 is reinventing urban elegance with jackets made from shirting fabrics paired with casual trousers. Vivienne Westwood’s return injected a fresh urban dandy vibe, blending hemp, soft tweed, and vibrant striped cottons adorned with floral motifs to embody summer lightness.
Beyond tailoring, menswear is embracing fluidity and novel materials that liberate the body. Pronounce’s collection exemplifies this with blouse-capes and semi-transparent, flowing trousers in pastel and nude tones, combining soft-boy sartorial elements with workwear influences through masterful layering. SETCHU’s transformative spirit fuses Eastern and Western aesthetics, offering co-ed collections and multifunctional garments like bags that become dresses or cargo pants that convert into skirts. Material innovation is central: SEASE introduced Chinook Cotton, an ultra-fine but water-resistant fabric, alongside HT Steel Nylon with a metallic sheen. Stone Island pushes technical boundaries with reflective and thermosensitive textiles, while Mordecai explores physicality with solid textures and anatomically inspired designs.
Details and accessories have taken on newfound importance in menswear expression. Denim is elevated, as seen in Manuel Ritz’s floral-printed suits, while utilitywear gains sculptural volume and movement, highlighted in Baracuta’s worn-look pieces. Iconic accessories—raffia bucket hats, oversized glasses, and sorbet-hued street-style colors—populate the scene. Etro spotlights Paisley, enriched with artisanal craftsmanship and rich textures, underscoring the intricate balance between tradition and innovation.
Meanwhile, Milan’s runways have declared key trends for the upcoming season, from pajamas and stripes to balloon pants and lightweight jackets, defining a wardrobe that embraces comfort and style for Spring-Summer 2026.
Yet, this season’s presentations unfolded against a complex backdrop: ongoing global conflicts and challenges threatening the identity and excellence of Italian manufacturing, exemplified by cases like Max Mara. Despite these headwinds, the Italian menswear sector remains committed to tradition and innovation, aiming to chart a hopeful path forward.
The Milano Men Fashion Week, held from June 20 to 24, 2025, featured a rich array of collections that reaffirmed the centrality of material research—from precious cottons to reimagined archival pieces infused with modern innovation. Sports-inspired themes resurfaced, drawing from iconic Italian cycling and Milanese judo gyms for shapes, concepts, and colors. Functionality, sartorial craftsmanship, and deconstruction emerged as the pillars of this edition.
Among the standout collections was MSGM’s “I Feel the Rush” by Massimo Giorgetti, which reinterprets bike life as an aesthetic and cultural manifesto. The collection blends technical fabrics—perforated mesh, lightweight nylon, worn Cordura—with cycling iconography like the pink and yellow jerseys, producing garments that evoke the thrill and introspection of the ride. The accompanying immersive installation by the Fosbury collective stripped away excess to highlight passion, authenticity, and the essence of the road.
Mordecai’s latest collection draws inspiration from judo, expressing emotional tension through physicality and the body’s contact. Originating from a poignant video of two brothers reunited after war, the collection uses technical cottons and nylon to create tactile textures, with prints referencing artist Louise Bourgeois and ethnic Suzani rugs. The theme of duality, inspired by the Roman god Janus, permeates the designs, which feature a palette ranging from off-white to military green, black, and uniform blue, with volumes evoking the intimacy of martial arts locker rooms. The collection’s reflective mood is underscored by a poetic reading of “La pioggia nel pineto” by Roberto Herlitzka.
Eleventy’s SS26 collection pays homage to nature’s purity through linen, a sustainable, ancient fiber. The palette—coriander yellow, Prussian blue, Himalayan salt pink—evokes a sea sunrise, while soft, fluid, and deconstructed silhouettes celebrate daily gestures with noble fabrics and artisanal craftsmanship. The offering includes Mao-collared light jackets, three-dimensional knitwear, innovative trousers like the “Trisize” model, and sustainable ultra-light denim, alongside capsules revisiting workwear, luxury beachwear, and refined leisurewear. Eleventy also launched the Eleventy Club and a Made to Order cashmere service, blending material memory with emotion and belonging.
Brioni’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection renews its storied craftsmanship with a focus on “softness” that is deliberate yet subtle. The line balances generous but fitted silhouettes, with garments that delicately reveal the body beneath an air of effortless elegance. The “Soffio” jacket, engineered to feel as light as a breath, appears in classic and double-face versions extending to blazers, parkas, and trench coats crafted from ethereal fabrics. The color story references Roman villa hues and Morandi’s faded landscapes—beige, sand, light greens, blues, with touches of crimson and evening tones like mocha and black. Brioni’s wardrobe strikes a refined balance between formal and casual, enhanced by comfortable knitwear and bold accents like denim and suede, complemented by soft accessories such as sandals and loafers.
Cortigiani continues to champion sartorial comfort and Italian artisanal quality with a cosmopolitan collection blending lightness and refinement. Essential yet carefully crafted pieces—from deconstructed linen or silk-cotton jersey jackets to breathable natural yarn sweaters—define the range. Relaxed-fit trousers with drawstrings strike a new harmony between function and style, while the palette spans natural hues from sand to midnight blue, reinforcing Cortigiani’s role as a beacon of understated international elegance.
MooRER’s collection explores a sober, functional, and sophisticated elegance for the contemporary man. Inspired by Mediterranean light, natural elements, and fluid landscapes, the line blends relaxed tailoring with high-tech innovation. Silhouettes are dry and outerwear is deconstructed, emphasizing lightness and precision. Fabrics include linen, silk, cotton, and ultra-light technical textiles. The color palette—sand, almond, cinnamon, dusty rose—evokes distant horizons, with matte and glossy textures creating dynamic contrasts. MooRER’s wardrobe is essential yet refined, designed for seamless daily transitions, even on the golf course.
Harmont & Blaine’s “Re-Loved” capsule redefines circular fashion with creativity and authenticity. Collaborating with Roberto Lonoce of Re-Jàvu Milano, the collection revives archive fabrics and garments with artisanal and contemporary flair. The result is an eclectic, poetic wardrobe featuring hybrid vests, reversible jackets, multi-material polos, and patchwork accessories. The broader SS26 collection continues to embody sunny Mediterranean style, balancing functionality and lightness. Technical outerwear dialogues with bowling shirts, chinos adopt relaxed volumes, and beachwear dazzles with geometric prints and whimsical touches. Accessories include maxi bags and upcycled belts, completing a narrative of casual yet conscious elegance.
Altea offers a visual story of materiality, sobriety, and measured elegance. Known for its contemporary tailoring, the brand presents a relaxed aesthetic where fabric quality meets essential style. Texture is key—from ribbed knit polos with wavy effects to Odell cotton-linen drill trousers—each piece blends comfort with refinement. The masculine silhouette is casual but polished, designed for urban men balancing form and function. The female line mirrors this ethos with harmonious contrasts: tweed workwear jackets layered over organza shirts and skirts, playing with structure and transparency for confident yet understated elegance. The color palette remains neutral—beige, ecru, off-white—crafting a timeless summer wardrobe that transitions effortlessly between city life and leisure.
Canali’s collection pays tribute to its Brianza roots and the mythos of 1960s and 1970s Gran Turismo cars. Inspired by Monza, the temple of speed and Italian engineering, the wardrobe marries sartorial precision with functionality and racing lifestyle elements. Silhouettes are soft and harmonious, crafted from luxurious wool, suede, and silk processed for comfort and fluid movement—garments designed to accommodate the act of entering and exiting a car with ease. Refined details evoke racing car interiors, such as woven leather reminiscent of steering wheel covers and knitwear inspired by driving gloves. Innovative technical fabrics resemble denim but possess the refinement of fine wool, balancing tradition with modernity.
Marking its tenth anniversary, QASIMI debuted at Milan Fashion Week with a deeply personal Spring/Summer 2026 collection by Hoor Al Qasimi. The line honors founder Khalid Al Qasimi, the designer’s twin brother, and explores themes of memory, identity, and transformation. Sandy tones, modular cuts, and the return of Memory nylon—a fabric that changes appearance over time—imbue the collection with poetic depth. Collaborating with Lebanese artist Dala Nasser, frayed hems and raw embroidery evoke the passage of time. This collection not only celebrates an anniversary but also opens a contemplative portal to the future, emphasizing ethical awareness, deadstock fabrics, and an aesthetic defined by change.
Valstar revisits its origins by relaunching the trench coat, the brand’s first love since its 1911 Milan founding. The iconic garment is reimagined in a light, deconstructed style, faithful to a vision of invisible tailoring and premium materials. The “Made in Italy” collection balances memory and modernity through fluid silhouettes, neutral palettes, and meticulous handcraftsmanship. Valstar proves that when rain is dressed well, it can embody pure refinement.
C.P. Company launched its collection with “Behind the Seams,” an editorial and visual installation debuting on June 20, 2025, at the Milan showroom. Filmed between the Massimo Osti Archive and the Carrè R&D center, the project highlights the brand’s dialogue between heritage and innovation. The installation reveals experimental dyeing processes and textile research featuring advanced materials like Bi-TM, Gore G-Type, Opal-C, and recycled Panama-R. Iconic pieces such as the Goggle and Mille jackets are reinterpreted through garment dyeing and functional design, incorporating modular details and utility pockets that reference the brand’s historic field jacket.
As menswear embraces fluidity, sustainability, and innovation, these collections collectively signal a renaissance rooted in tradition yet boldly looking forward. From the streets of Florence to the runways of Milan, the future of men’s fashion is as much about identity and expression as it is about style—a testament to how clothing continues to mirror and shape the evolving narrative of modern masculinity.
