In 2025, renowned restaurateur Magda Gessler continued her mission to revive struggling Polish restaurants through her popular show, "Kuchenne rewolucje." The sixth episode of the 30th season, which aired on April 3, featured Gessler returning to the Stara Kuźnia restaurant in Magnuszew, a place she had previously transformed 14 years earlier.
Gessler first visited Stara Kuźnia in 2011, where she successfully helped the then-owner Danuta save the restaurant from closure. This time, however, Gessler found herself revisiting the establishment under very different circumstances. The current owners, Anna and her wife Małgorzata, reached out for help again after facing a series of challenges that threatened the restaurant's future.
"Pojawiły się kolejne problemy. Z zarządzaniem restauracją, z pracownikami i z tym wszystkim, co się tutaj zaczęło dziać, więc mama postanowiła oddać mi restaurację," Anna explained, highlighting the difficulties they had encountered over the years. Despite their struggles, both Anna and Małgorzata remained hopeful about the restaurant's potential for revival.
During her visit, Gessler quickly noticed the restaurant's decline. The atmosphere was lackluster, and the food quality had deteriorated significantly. "Śledź bez smaku, przemoczony, niedobre," she remarked about one dish, while also criticizing the soup and a signature dish called "kociołek kowala," which she described as smelling like spoiled cheese. Gessler's candid feedback underscored the urgent need for change.
Determined to help, Gessler set about transforming Stara Kuźnia into Borowikowy Las Restauracja. The name change symbolized a fresh start, and Gessler aimed to create a menu that would reflect the local environment and culinary traditions. "To miejsce jest nieźle zdechłe. (...) Restauracja się musi zintegrować z okolicą," she noted, emphasizing the importance of connecting the restaurant with its surroundings.
As part of the transformation, Gessler introduced a new menu featuring dishes made from game meat, which she believed would appeal to the local clientele. Some of the standout offerings included leśna tarta z podgrzybkami (forest tart with mushrooms), krupnik na cielęcinie pachnący grzybami (veal soup with mushrooms), and bigos myśliwski (hunter's stew) served with potato puree. Prices for these dishes ranged from 28 złotych to 55 złotych, making them accessible yet gourmet.
After the initial transformation, Gessler returned to Borowikowy Las 15 weeks later to assess the changes. She was pleased to find that the restaurant was still operational and had garnered a positive reception. "Jedzenie pyszne, jak u dobrej gospodyni w leśniczówce," Gessler commented, praising the food's quality and flavor.
However, she also offered constructive criticism, stating that while the bigos was good, it could be improved with more seasoning. "Bardzo uczciwy bigos, ale bez s***u. Za mało pieprzu, za mało jałowca..." she noted, suggesting that the dish could reach its full potential with minor adjustments.
Gessler's approach to the restaurant's revival was not just about the food; it was also about fostering a sense of community and pride in the establishment. She encouraged Anna and Małgorzata to take ownership of their restaurant and to infuse it with their passion and personality.
Located at Partyzantów 2 in Magnuszew, Borowikowy Las Restauracja is open from Monday to Thursday from 12:00 to 18:00, and from Friday to Sunday from 12:00 to 20:00. The restaurant has also embraced social media, helping it connect with a broader audience and attract new customers.
As the episode aired, viewers were left wondering if Gessler's intervention would result in a lasting turnaround for the restaurant. The revival of Stara Kuźnia, now Borowikowy Las, serves as a testament to the resilience of small businesses and the impact of community support.
In a world where many restaurants struggle to survive, Gessler's efforts remind us of the importance of passion, creativity, and adaptability in the culinary industry. As she continues her journey through Poland's eateries, one can't help but be inspired by her commitment to helping others find success.
