The culinary heritage of Macao is at risk as the city, known for its vibrant fusion of Portuguese and Chinese cuisines, faces the gradual disappearance of its traditional recipes. Restaurateur Manuela Sales da Silva Ferreira is determined to keep her family's culinary legacy alive, ensuring the recipes passed down through generations are not lost to time.
With the crack of fire under her wok and the aroma of spices filling the air, Ferreira prepares Minchi, one of the most cherished comfort foods for the Macanese. This dish, which features fried minced meat, diced potatoes, and is topped with a sunny-side-up egg, encapsulates the unique culinary identity of Macao. Ferreira opened her restaurant, Restaurante Litoral, back when she feared the loss of Macanese cuisine would become inevitable. "If I don’t do anything, Macanese cooking will be lost," she recalls, detailing her motivation to return to her home city of Macao after having left to get married and raise children.
Macao, which was handed back to China by Portugal 25 years ago, is often recognized for its luxurious casinos and nightlife. Still, Ferreira's story highlights the importance of preserving the rich cultural influences reflected in the region's food. Macanese cuisine is not just about flavor; it embodies the historical blending of Portuguese and Chinese cultures, enriched by ingredients from other Portuguese colonies across the globe, from Brazil to Mozambique.
UNESCO has even praised Macao, calling it “home of the first fusion food,” and this cultural melting pot is evident in the flavors and techniques used by local chefs. Ferreira notes how her family recipes have roots deep within this culinary history, as centuries of Portuguese wives adapted their dishes using available local ingredients, and likewise, Chinese wives tried to replicate Portuguese flavors.
Another signature dish from Ferreira's kitchen is baked crabmeat, which has evolved from its cold, creamy origins in Portugal to become a hot dish served directly from the crab shells. This evolution speaks to the community's resilience and adaptation, drawing from both past and present to forge its culinary future.
According to the most recent census taken in 2021, Macao has a population comprised predominantly of ethnic Chinese (about 89.4%), with Portuguese and mixed descent residents making up just 1.9%. There's anxiety among some locals about the longevity of their cultural heritage, not just through food, but also language, religion, and identity.
Miguel de Senna Fernandes, who leads the association for residents of mixed Portuguese and Chinese heritage, reflects on the historical role these communities have played throughout Macao's colonial past. He traces his family lineage back to 1750, noting how mixed-race individuals have historically acted as cultural bridges between the Portuguese and the local Chinese. Fernandes emphasizes the importance of embracing one’s unique identity, stating, "We are from Macao. We are different from the Chinese, but we should embrace the differences." This call for celebration of their distinctiveness is becoming increasingly relevant as culinary traditions are at risk of fading away.
The modernization of Macao poses challenges to its culinary heritage, as newer generations may prioritize convenience over tradition. Old restaurants are closing, and many chefs are retiring, leading to fears among the community about the disappearance of cherished local dishes. Ferreira's commitment to retaining and sharing her culinary history serves as both preservation and education for her children and customers inside her restaurant.
At Restaurante Litoral, visitors can immerse themselves not only in the flavors of Macanese cuisine but also learn about the historical significance behind each dish. Ferreira and her peers are more than just chefs; they are custodians of culture, storytelling through the dishes they serve and preserving the essence of what makes Macao unique.
With voices from the Macanese community advocating for the importance of their culinary traditions, there’s hope for the future of Macanese food. The fusion of cultures, represented on their plates, is not merely sustenance but rather the narrative of their shared identity, history, and existence. By keeping these traditions alive, the community can celebrate their past and inspire future generations to share and savor the rich flavors of Macao.
