Luxury watchmaking is undergoing significant transformations and announcements, showcasing creativity and adapting to the modern consumer's tastes. The horological scene is filled with stories rooted not just in function, but art, philosophy, and collaboration, sparking renewed interest and excitement among watch enthusiasts.
One such intriguing tale emerged recently from the Bangkok Biennale, where timepieces and their significance took center stage. An ornate 19th-century clock, originally gifted by King Rama V to Buddhist monks, is being displayed at the event. This French-made clock is important not only as an exquisite artifact but also as part of the narrative surrounding modernization and the cultural shifts within Thailand during the late 1800s. Artistic director Apinan Poshyananda highlighted how the clock symbolizes the ‘gift of time’ from the king, who had ambitions to modernize Siam and bridge relationships with Western nations.
“Time is not linear, but circular,” noted Nakrob Moonmanas, one of the artists showcasing their work at the biennale. The intersection of traditional beliefs with Western influence presents a fascinating commentary on globalization’s impact on local cultures, woven throughout the heart of luxury watchmaking today.
On another front, horology enthusiasts have been immersed in the hands-on experience of clock repair, as Nigel Barnes, a fifth-generation horologist from Ireland, took to teaching weekend classes aimed at reviving interest and sparking creativity. Students from various backgrounds gather at his workshop, eager to learn not just how to fix their precious timepieces but also the rich histories behind them. "It’s necessary to know the background to understand clocks," Barnes expressed during one of his classes. Not only does this practical knowledge serve to preserve tradition, but it also fosters appreciation for the craftsmanship integral to the luxury watch market.
Meanwhile, innovation continues to thrive with brands like Kollokium making waves. Launched by three friends during the pandemic, Kollokium celebrates the joy of collaboration without formal branding constraints. The co-founders aim to create exquisite watches purely for personal enjoyment and share them with fellow enthusiasts. Their first limited-edition watch sold out almost instantly, and their approach nods to the history of watchmaking communities where artisanship thrived through personal connections.
Mark Cho, co-founder of The Armoury and the mastermind behind the latest collaboration with Naoya Hida and Joshua Nathan Shapiro, also concludes timepiece creation should be driven by passion rather than commercial viability. Cho’s new hand-wound mechanical watch was introduced with much anticipation, emphasizing the luxurious appeal of exclusive craftsmanship over mass production.
“I couldn’t believe it,” said Benoît Mintiens, founder of Ressence, after recovering his beloved prototype watches stolen back in 2014. Thanks to the collaboration between various watch professionals and auction houses, these cherished timepieces were located. This incident highlights the intertwined fates of enthusiasts and makers alike, with compelling stories behind every watch.
Approaching the centennial year, Watches of Switzerland Group is also facing the current climate of luxury sales. Brian Duffy, the chief executive, candidly reflected on growth challenges and strategies. The global watch industry has shown mixed results as demand softens, yet the company aims for expansion, marking its centennial with limited-edition releases and strong community engagement, including charity partnerships.
Despite obstacles like taxation changes impacting luxury sales in the UK, the retailer has struck deals to diversify its offerings, including acquiring the rights to distribute Roberto Coin jewelry—further emphasizing the connection between luxury timepieces and fine accessories. Duffy's vision appears clear: adapt to maintain relevance, engage with customers deeply, and provide more than just products but experiences.
Collectively, luxury watchmaking is entering a fascinating chapter marked by coalescing history with modern expressions, artistic endeavors, and innovative collaborations. These forces work harmoniously to keep the industry vibrant and truly reflective of the times. With each tick of the clock, enthusiasts are reminded of the rich narratives behind every watch, each new design representing not just timekeeping, but the endless possibilities and stories waiting to be told.
