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Business
11 August 2024

Luxury Brands React To China’s Consumer Market Changes

Struggles with shifting consumer preferences push luxury goods and coffee brands to rethink their strategies

Luxury brands around the globe are at a crossroads, especially as the Chinese consumer market, once considered the golden ticket for high-end retail, undergoes significant shifts. With changing consumer preferences, economic uncertainties, and increased competition from local brands, the giants of luxury goods are scrambling to adapt.

Take Ralph Lauren, for example. The company recently reported a modest 1% rise in revenue, up to $1.51 billion during the first quarter. This was noteworthy against the backdrop of disappointing performances from other luxury brands such as LVMH and Gucci’s owner Kering. Analysts had initially braced for a decline, but Ralph Lauren exceeded expectations with its earnings, driven primarily by steady demand for its signature denim and polo shirts across Europe and Asia, particularly China. This has led to speculation on whether Ralph Lauren can maintain its edge as competitors struggle.

Meanwhile, Starbucks, the ubiquitous American coffee chain, is feeling the heat more than ever. After years of tarnishing its reputation as the go-to brand for China's middle class, Starbucks is grappling with falling revenues. For the quarter ending June 30, the company reported an alarming 11% drop in revenue from its 7,306 stores across mainland China. Same-store sales plummeted 14%, amid declining transaction volumes and average order values. Initially viewed as a cultural icon and luxury experience, coffee is increasingly seen as just another commodity—drawing consumers to cheaper local options like Luckin Coffee and Cotti Coffee.

Cotti Coffee, which has quickly made its mark since being founded just two years ago, has adopted aggressive pricing and expansion strategies, launching 7,500 outlets and pledging to add another 8,000. This rapid growth offers coffee drinkers budget-friendly alternatives, directly hitting Starbucks where it hurts. Analysts predict continued loss of market share for Starbucks, particularly as its prices remain considerably higher than local competitors. For example, one cup of tall latte at Starbucks may cost around 30 yuan, whereas Cotti offers coffee at about 9.9 yuan (around $1.40).

Starbucks isn’t alone; other prominent luxury brands are also bearing the brunt of changing consumer attitudes. Many customers, particularly younger shoppers, have shifted their preferences from traditional luxury goods to more affordable alternatives. This trend includes the rise of second-hand luxury marketplaces and fast fashion brands, which are nabbing the attention of cost-conscious consumers.

According to Sean Dunlop, a senior equity analyst, Starbucks is losing traction, not just due to the pricing strategy from local brands but from the broader perception among consumers who now view high-priced coffee as unnecessary. This shift represents not just changing preferences but also the broader economic climate affecting consumers' purchasing power and willingness to spend on luxury.

Back to Ralph Lauren, its recent earnings growth is contrasted against the backdrop of the company's obligation to navigate regional challenges effectively. Observers wonder if the brand can sustain its performance and whether they will adapt their strategies to reinvent themselves amid growing competition from local and online retailers.

It’s not just the coffee and fashion industries experiencing these dynamics. WeRide, a Chinese self-driving automotive company, is also part of the conversation. Seeking to raise approximately $583 million through its potential US IPO, WeRide is making significant strides as it tests and deploys autonomous vehicles globally. Given its rapid entry and growth, WeRide could very well shape the future of transportation; by tapping the excitement around autonomous technology, it looks to stand out among the giants of the automotive industry.

This year has posed challenges for luxury brands, as evidenced by Capri Holdings which, after disappointing quarters, has seen brands like Versace and Michael Kors struggling to maintain relevance. The fashion mogul's challenges aren’t just reflective of changing tastes, but of the rising cost of goods and shifts to more casual and comfortable wear—qualities consumers craved post-pandemic.

Interestingly, recent reports point to the impact China’s economic environment has on luxury consumption overall. Spurred on by increased regulations, shifting societal norms, and geopolitical tensions, luxury brands find themselves assessing their operations from the ground up. This applies equally to businesses like Starbucks and Ralph Lauren, which must engage effectively with local markets to understand their shifting consumer bases without oversaturations or missteps.

The luxury marketplace is now influenced not just by tradition but by social consciousness and shifting perceptions of value. Many brands are actively working to reconnect with their customers, focusing on digital marketing, personalized shopping experiences, collaborations with influencers, and sustainability initiatives, hoping to align with consumer values and priorities.

Analysts often propose strategies for these luxury brands to balance maintaining their allure as premium choices with accessibility and consumer relatability. Analysts suggest integrating value propositions beyond just the product itself—tapping emotional connections, historical significance, and features of exclusivity.

The road ahead for luxury brands won't be as straightforward as it once seemed. With waves of change and increasing competition, companies like Ralph Lauren, Starbucks, and others must innovate their approaches. They can't simply rest on their laurels as the market evolves; they must embrace and respond to the shifting whims of consumers, recalibrated by economic pressures, cultural shifts, and the surging demand for authenticity and value.

For luxury brands, the key may lie not only within maintaining high standards and exceptional quality but also by listening to the modern consumer, who eyes practicality alongside prestige. This approach will make for more informed strategic decisions as they navigate through changing landscapes and challenges.