On a bustling Saturday in Milan, the city’s famed Fashion Week pulsed with anticipation as Louise Trotter, the newly appointed creative director of Bottega Veneta, unveiled her inaugural collection for the storied Italian house. Trotter, who joined Bottega Veneta in January 2025, made history as the first woman to helm the brand, and her Spring-Summer 2026 debut was met with both critical acclaim and palpable excitement. As reported by the Associated Press and Who What Wear, the event became the talk of the season, overshadowing even the headline-making debuts at Versace, Jil Sander, and Gucci.
Inside the exclusive, invitation-only venue, the air buzzed with expectation. Outside, a crowd of enthusiastic K-pop fans gathered, hoping for a glimpse of RM, the leader of BTS, whose presence underscored the show’s cultural significance and global reach. But all eyes inside were on Trotter and her vision for Bottega Veneta—a vision that both honored the house’s legendary craftsmanship and boldly charted new territory.
“I’m in the candy box,” Trotter remarked, reflecting on her immersion into the world of Bottega Veneta’s artisans. “It has been the most wonderful, wonderful entrance into this house, to discover the crafts, the hands, the willingness to always say: ‘Let’s try.’ It’s just a wonder.” According to AP, Trotter drew deep inspiration from the craftspeople at the Veneto atelier, shaping a collection that balanced tradition with innovation.
The debut featured an impressive 76 looks for both men and women, each one a study in contrasts and technical prowess. The opening ensemble—a model clad in an ivory silk blouse, sock boots, and a navy-blue wool peacoat fastened with the house’s signature knot motif—immediately set the tone. Trotter’s affinity for tailoring was evident throughout, with sculptural garments that fit snugly at the bust, waist, and hip, yet often held away from the body to create striking silhouettes.
Fringe played a starring role, adding a touch of fantasy to coats and skirts. As Who What Wear noted, these mesmerizing fringes swirled and bounced, evoking movement and whimsy. One standout piece—a coat layered in white fringe and paired with a soft popcorn knit collar—captured the playful yet sophisticated spirit of the collection. Elsewhere, classic combinations were made special by subtle details: an Intrecciato collar here, a knot cuff link there, or a padded shoulder lending structure to a fluid silhouette.
The collection’s timing was serendipitous. 2025 marks the 50th anniversary of Bottega Veneta’s iconic Intrecciato weaving technique, and Trotter celebrated the milestone by weaving the motif throughout her designs. The Intrecciato appeared everywhere: on coats, trousers, removable neck collars, bandanas, and, of course, the house’s signature bags. According to Who What Wear, the weaving was sometimes hidden, such as inside jacket flaps or sewn into non-leather Bermuda shorts, and sometimes boldly displayed, as on patent leather coats with feather collars and all-white matching sets.
Bags, a cornerstone of Bottega Veneta’s identity, received special attention. Trotter paid homage to the house’s 1966-1977 era, a time of burgeoning women’s liberation, by reinventing archival styles like the Lauren and Cabat bags. She also introduced fresh options, including a crocodile open-top tote and feminine dopp kits, which were styled with almost lingerie-like dresses for a modern twist. Big soft bags, slouchy shoulder styles, and east-west clutches rounded out the offering, ensuring that the collection would appeal to both commercial buyers and fashion aficionados.
“This show was really about the journey and life of Bottega Veneta,” Trotter explained. “I really wanted to talk about Bottega Veneta as a living person.” Her approach was holistic, merging masculine tailoring with feminine dresses in leather and lightweight taffeta, juxtaposing sporty sunglasses and furry bags with elegant kisslock clutches, and mixing classic shirting with multicolored fringe skirts and clogs. The result, in the words of Who What Wear, was an “air of messy perfection that somehow just worked.”
Leading up to her Milan debut, Trotter had teased her vision on the red carpet. At the Cannes Film Festival in May 2025, Julianne Moore wore a simple black gown with a fringe detail reminiscent of the runway pieces, while Vicky Krieps donned a burgundy Intrecciato backless top. These moments, as Who What Wear pointed out, offered early hints of the direction Trotter would take the brand.
The front row at Saturday’s show read like a who’s who of Hollywood royalty, with Julianne Moore, Uma Thurman, Michelle Yeoh, and Lauren Hutton all in attendance. Moore and Yeoh both sported denim looks—Moore in classic blue, Yeoh in black—while Thurman opted for a tailored tuxedo coat with satin lapels. Hutton, in a nod to the brand’s history, carried her original Lauren bag, the same style she famously toted in the 1980 film American Gigolo. Their presence, dressed head to toe in Bottega Veneta, embodied the confident, chic, and undeniably cool woman that Trotter envisions for the brand today.
Of course, the significance of Trotter’s appointment cannot be overstated. As Who What Wear highlighted, she is not only Bottega Veneta’s first female creative director but also a trailblazer who previously broke similar ground at Lacoste. Her career has been marked by a willingness to reinvent and experiment, from her transformative work at Carven to her fresh perspective at Bottega Veneta.
The industry response was swift and enthusiastic. Critics lauded Trotter’s ability to deliver both a creative masterpiece and a commercial hit—a rare feat for any designer, let alone on a debut outing. The show’s mix of fantasy and functionality, its reverence for craft, and its bold embrace of the future signaled that Bottega Veneta is in safe and innovative hands.
As Milan Fashion Week drew to a close, the buzz around Bottega Veneta lingered. Trotter’s debut not only honored the house’s legacy but also expanded its horizons, inviting a new generation of fans—K-pop devotees, Hollywood stars, and style insiders alike—into the fold. With her deft touch and visionary spirit, Louise Trotter has set the stage for a new era at Bottega Veneta, one where heritage and modernity dance together in perfect harmony.
