London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 just wrapped up, and it’s already being hailed as one of the most exciting seasons yet. Familiar names have shared the spotlight with fresh talent, thrilling spectators with innovative designs and powerful themes. From unique interpretations of traditional fashion to bold explorations of cultural heritage, this season underscored the diversity and dynamism of the London fashion scene.
One of the standout collections came from LABRUM, who set their show against the iconic backdrop of Arsenal’s Emirates Stadium. Their collection explored the designer Foday Dumbuya's dual passion for football and his Sierra Leonean heritage, crafted with intricately themed pieces. The show featured actual footballers, including Declan Rice, strutting down the runway, adorned with signature suits and ribbon details. This blending of sport and fashion emphasized not just style but also cultural identity.
AARON ESH continues his impressive meteoric rise, with his SS25 collection dedicated to his mentor, Katy England. ESH has now transitioned from being simply 'one to watch' to becoming recognized as a British icon. His latest lineup was characterized by sleek silhouettes and chic cut-outs, reflecting his commitment to elegance. Influencing the aesthetic of the season, he demonstrated how creations can evolve organically within the fashion calendar.
KNWLS also made waves with their approach to couture. Drawing inspiration from legendary couturiers such as Madame Grès and John Galliano, they managed to reinterpret everyday wear—transforming jeans and hoodies to luxurious couture pieces. The unique undertaking illustrated their belief: elegance exists within the simplicity of familiar pieces.
Romanian designer ANCUȚA SARCA took the classic Crocs up several notches, introducing stunning hybrid designs. Fusing office attire with elements of ‘60s optimism, her collection was peppered with sexy interpretations of footwear and refreshing silhouettes. With kitten heels and calf-length boots, she redefined office chic—aiming for comfort without sacrificing style.
KENT&CURWEN’s show paid homage to British heritage with traditional garments like trench coats and rugby shirts, all accented with vibrant colors and patterns reminiscent of school uniforms. Their collection looked to redefine elevated and stylish representation within the educational framework, balancing nostalgic aesthetics with contemporary flair.
Tolu Coker infused her designs with personal history and cultural symbolism. Named after her mother, her collection “Olapeju” examined the layers of wealth gathered through personal narratives and community. Her usage of equestrian-inspired jackets and vibrant prints served as love letters to her Nigerian heritage, delivering both style and emotional resonance.
ROKSANDA also embraced the theme of nature, channeling Agnes Denes’s art piece, which examined urbanization against ecological concerns. Her collection illustrated the concept of harmonious coexistence between humanity and nature, marked by gentle color palettes and flowing fabrics inspired by her roots. Her choice of materials spoke volumes about sustainability—an increasingly prevalent trend this season.
The talented designer, MITHRIDATE, took audiences on a trip to East Asia, showcasing their vibrant SS25 collection influenced by the rich cultures of China’s Yunnan Province. Integrally woven with themes reflecting tradition and heritage, the collection bridged the gap between modern fashion and ancient craft, underscoring the importance of storytelling through clothing.
Sinead Gorey’s presentation turned heads with its focus on teenage nostalgia, encapsulating the experiences of being young and misunderstood. Portraying the awkwardness of adolescence, her collection pulled at the threads of body-con looks and exaggerated lipstick—a powerful reminder of how fashion often serves as exploration of identity.
MADELINE GIMBY’s take on the teenage girl narrative strived to evoke introspection, referencing past highs and lows through contemporary designs and vibrant colors. This collection struck the right chords, bridging the gap between past experiences and present-day empowerment.
Erdem tackled queer literature head-on with his collection drawing from the themes of Radclyffe Hall’s 1928 novel The Well of Loneliness. This blending of narrative with aesthetic translated the essence of literary longing and emotional depth onto the runway, resulting in silhouettes merging masculine and feminine characteristics.
Meanwhile, Yuhan Wang’s “The Rose Fist” challenged conventions of femininity by bringing forth contrasting aesthetic elements—softness of lace juxtaposed with strong gothic motifs. Creating this visual dialogue encouraged conversations around gender identity, as the collection shifted the boundaries of traditional femininity, paving new paths forward.
Another show featuring思人 Kai Chun's reconceptualization of garment design stood as his rebuttal against stereotypical notions of masculinity. With bold color statements and offbeat tailoring, he showcased how fashion embodies individuality and courage, reshaping how we perceive menswear.
Ahluwalia turned the runway experience upside down, posing the question: “what does home mean to you?” This collection drew from her Indian-Nigerian heritage, filled with familial memories and cultural richness. Influenced by personal reflections, she fused textiles and styles from her upbringing, creating designs emphasizing belonging and nostalgia.
This year, we also witnessed TOGA’s remarkable return to the London Fashion Week stage after their four-year hiatus. The collection navigated themes of exuberance and excess, showcasing shimmering textile innovations paired with captivating silhouettes, pointing to the rejuvenation and resurgence of trends once thought lost to the past.
Finally, for those following the latest jewelry trends seen at LFW, this season’s accessories were marked by bold statements, from oversized golden pieces to playful pearl stacks. Glittering jewels adorned attendees like adornments, elevates the humble outfits to stratospheric new heights.
Overall, London Fashion Week SS25 achieved something remarkable: it not only celebrated fashion but also pushed societal dialogues about identity, heritage, and artistic expression. Collectively, these designers and their shows have crafted moments of cultural commentary and personal exploration, making this season not just about garments but about storytelling through style.
