São Paulo has lost one of its culinary giants, with the passing of José de Almeida, founder of the renowned Mocotó restaurant, who died on Sunday, March 2, 2025, at the age of 86. The news has stirred deep emotions throughout the city, as Almeida's contributions to the gastronomy of São Paulo are deeply intertwined with its cultural fabric.
José de Almeida began his life’s work far from the hustle and bustle of the city. Born in 1938 in Mulungu, Pernambuco, he moved to São Paulo at the age of 25, with dreams and determination. Working alongside his brothers Gersino and Gilvan, he opened the restaurant known as Casa do Norte, which eventually evolved and became the beloved Mocotó, established in 1973, located on Avenida Nossa Senhora do Loreto, serving up traditional northeastern Brazilian fare.
The Mocotó restaurant became widely recognized not just for its authentic food but also for elevative dining experiences, artfully merging traditional recipes with culinary creativity. The establishment has received numerous accolades over the years, including being recognized as the best restaurant globally for “no reservation required” dinners by the World Restaurant Awards. Recently, it was ranked 63rd among Latin America’s best restaurants by the British magazine Restaurant and earned the Bib Gourmand award from the Michelin Guide.
A heartfelt tribute was shared on the restaurant’s Instagram page, expressing the impact Almeida had on countless lives: “Sua trajetória é a história de muitos retirantes que, com coragem e determinação, ajudaram a moldar São Paulo. Ao abrir as portas do Mocotó, ele trouxe à cidade suas raízes e diminuiu a distância entre o sertão e a quebrada. Anfitrião como ninguém, aprendemos com Seu Zé que a comida é mais do que nutrição, é também uma forma de materializar histórias e aproximar as pessoas, é nutrir os encontros e as amizades.” This encapsulates Almeida’s philosophy of bringing people together through food, turning meals not justinto sustenance but also stories and experiences shared among friends and family.
José's son, chef Rodrigo Oliveira, taking the helm of the restaurant since 2004, honors his father's legacy by continuing to innovate the menu. Rodrigo recalls the heartfelt lessons learned from his father, remarking, “Essa cozinha dos cozidos que muitas vezes é ignorada nos grandes restaurantes, mas é cheia de sutilezas e pode transformar produtos muito simples em pratos extraordinários.” This dedication to simplicity and depth of flavor is part of the very identity of Mocotó, building on what José Almeida established over the years.
Today, the family and friends will gather to celebrate José Almeida's life during the visitation at Velório Salete, located in Santana, on the north side of São Paulo, from 7 AM to 12 PM. His impact as both father and restaurateur resonates strongly with those whose lives he touched, and his absence will certainly be felt among the broader São Paulo community who embraced his culinary vision.
The stories shared not only reflect on Almeida's life but also highlight the immense legacy he leaves behind, bridging his roots from Pernambuco to the vibrant streets of São Paulo. With seven grandchildren alongside his children, Almeida’s spirit will continue through the family he raised and the culinary traditions he has firmly established. His story speaks of resilience, connection, and the remarkable power of food as it transforms lives and communities.