Tokyo has been quietly brewing something special over the past few decades: Japanese whisky is rapidly gaining recognition as one of the world's premier whisky categories, joining the ranks of Scotch, Irish whisky, American bourbon, and Canadian blends. At the forefront of this rise are two key players, Suntory Holdings Ltd. and Nikka Whisky Distilling Co., who have dedicated decades to distilling their flavor profiles and engaging in a friendly rivalry.
Since the early 2000s, both companies have consistently received accolades at international competitions, helping to cement Japanese whisky's status on the global stage. Takahiro Inagaki, president of Wakatsuru Shuzo Co. and the scion of a traditional sake brewing family, voiced the industry’s sentiment: "Can whisky become a true Japanese industry? We're at acritical turning point." Founded back in 1862, Wakatsuru Shuzo has evolved over the years, with whisky production becoming increasingly central to its operations.
Traditionally known for its premium sake offerings, the company began distilling whisky back in 1952 at its Saburomaru Distillery. It was during his return to the family business, after exploring opportunities outside Japan, when Takahiro unearthed a whisky crafted by his great-grandfather, aged over 60 years. Despite skepticism from his team, he found the whisky to have remarkable complexity and character. This discovery ignited his passion for whisky and led to modernization efforts at the distillery, becoming the master blender and producing spirits aligned with his vision.
Today, Wakatsuru Shuzo, which once mainly produced sake, now derives about 80% of its revenue from whisky sales, driven largely by exports. This transition mirrors the broader trend across Japan, where the whisky industry has experienced explosive growth; the number of distilleries has skyrocketed from just 10 to around 100 over the past decade. Amid this boom, the whisky-making process remains inherently complex and time-intensive, which raises concerns if these newer distilleries can sustain their businesses long term.
"To make Japan a world-class whisky producer, we need to expand the foundation of whisky production," Takahiro noted. This sentiment reflects the need not only for innovation but also for preserving the craftsmanship involved. Emerging distilleries face the challenge of competing against established brands, where much of the talent and resources are concentrated.
While new players bring fresh perspectives and techniques, the industry's promise is balanced against the realities of maintaining quality and consistency, especially under the pressures of international markets. The vibrant new distillers have begun to revive traditional practices, including restoring used barrels for whisky aging, which is pivotal for flavor development.
The surge of interest in Japanese whisky has also been motivated by global consumers’ sophisticated palates and appreciation for unique spirits. Whisky is now being celebrated not just for sipping neat or on the rocks but also for its versatility as the foundation of classic cocktails.
With the industry's momentum, Japanese whisky now competes with established global brands, often earning spots on prestigious award lists and becoming favorites among connoisseurs worldwide. The end of 2019 saw Japanese whiskies not only represented but dominating competitions, signaling the successful blend of heritage and innovation.
Wakatsuru Shuzo, along with other distilleries, exemplifies the balance of honoring tradition whilst adapting to the ebbs and flows of modern markets. By embracing both their historical roots and the evolution of consumer demands, these companies are shining examples of how Japanese whisky is poised for enduring success.
The growth of the Japanese whisky industry reflects broad cultural shifts, where local flavors and craftsmanship can find their place on the world stage. Takahiro’s insights capture the essence of this transitional moment, recognizing the need for sustainability amid excitement and expansion: "It's about developing the framework of production to withstand global competition and growing appreciation."
Overall, it appears clear: the future of Japanese whisky is bright, with its distillers ready to refine their craft and share their unique spirits with the world. The Japanese whisky industry stands at the edge of its next chapter, embracing change yet fervently protecting its storied heritage.