Gucci Parts Ways With Creative Director Sabato De Sarno Amid Struggles
Luxury Brand Faces Challenges as Sales Decline and New Leadership Transitions Loom
Gucci has announced the departure of Sabato De Sarno, its creative director, after less than two years of leadership. The decision follows significant financial struggles within the brand, with parent company Kering reporting substantial sales declines.
On February 6, 2025, Gucci confirmed via press release the end of its collaboration with De Sarno, expressing gratitude for his contributions. The upcoming Autumn/Winter 2025 runway show, set for February 25 during Milan Fashion Week, will be presented by the Gucci design studio rather than by De Sarno himself.
Stefano Cantino, CEO of Gucci, remarked, "I would like to express my deep gratitude to Sabato for his passion and dedication to Gucci. I sincerely appreciate how he honored Gucci’s craftsmanship and heritage with such commitment.”
Francesca Bellettini, the deputy CEO responsible for brand development at Kering, echoed similar sentiments, stating, "I sincerely thank Sabato for his loyalty and professionalism. I am proud of the work done to strengthen Gucci’s fundamentals." While the performance of De Sarno’s collections garnered mixed reviews, the brand has struggled with declining sales, with Kering reporting a sharp 25% drop during the latest quarter.
De Sarno took over as Gucci's creative director in January 2023, succeeding Alessandro Michele, who had garnered massive acclaim over his seven-year tenure with the brand. Known for his exuberant and playful designs, Michele's departure left large shoes to fill, as the label had enjoyed booming sales under his direction.
Faced with these challenges, De Sarno was tasked with redefining Gucci’s aesthetic. Prior to his appointment, he served as fashion director at Valentino, and held roles at prestigious brands such as Prada and Dolce & Gabbana. His vision involved promoting the brand’s iconic qualities through more restrained, sartorial designs, yet critiques have indicated his approach was short on innovative excitement, which Gucci desperately needed to reinvigorate its market presence.
Despite some appreciation for De Sarno's contributions, the lack of consumer buzz surrounding his collections has become increasingly evident. Analysts note how Kering's flagship brand, heavily reliant on the luxury segment, has continued to face turbulence amid broader economic pressures affecting luxury spending.
"The writing was on the wall. The demure style of Sabato De Sarno didn't fit the exuberant image built by Gucci over the past 30 years," said Luca Solca, senior research analyst at Bernstein. This poignant observation highlights the struggles of any new creative direction aiming to uphold the extravagant vision synonymous with the Gucci brand.
Gucci's sales slump has reportedly affected Kering's overall performance, dragging the company's stock value down approximately 3% after the announcement of De Sarno's exit. Over the past year, Kering has faced operational challenges, leading to three profit warnings. It seems the luxury brand is now entering another transitional phase as it seeks new leadership, with speculation circulating about potential successors to De Sarno.
The fashion community watches with bated breath for Kering’s upcoming announcements outlining Gucci’s new artistic direction. Kering's financial results presentation on February 11 is anticipated to provide insights on its strategies moving forward, particularly as the luxury industry grapples with fluctuated consumer demand.
The transition period following De Sarno's departure is pivotal for Gucci, which faces the necessity of reinvigorated creative concepts to emerge from its current sales struggles. The brand's potential new direction marks another chapter for Gucci, as it attempts to rebuild its reputation and financial strength within the luxury market.
Last year was significant for the fashion industry with numerous high-profile creative director changes across several established brands, and 2025 appears to be following suit with similar leadership shifts. For now, uncertainty looms as Gucci seeks to realign itself and regain its stature amid fierce competition and changing consumer behaviors.