Gucci has officially announced its decision to part ways with creative director Sabato De Sarno, just days before the upcoming Fall-Winter 2025 fashion show scheduled for February 25, 2025, during Milan's fashion week. The company's design office will present the collection, as Gucci plans to announce its new artistic direction at a later date.
Stefano Cantino, Gucci's CEO, expressed his deep appreciation for De Sarno, stating, "I would like to express my deep gratitude to Sabato for his passion and dedication to Gucci. I sincerely appreciate how he honoured the craftsmanship and heritage of the brand." Similarly, Francesca Bellettini, Deputy CEO of Kering, which oversees Gucci, thanked De Sarno for his loyalty and professionalism, asserting pride in the work done to strengthen the brand's identity.
De Sarno, who took over from Alessandro Michele, led Gucci through some turbulent times marked by declining sales and shifting market dynamics. His tenure began sharply amid significant corporate changes, with the brand grappling with serious financial challenges, including revenue drops of approximately 30%. The fashion industry as a whole has been adjusting to economic constraints, particularly since the crisis stemming from issues like inflation and geopolitical tensions affecting markets globally.
The luxury market is currently facing unprecedented changes; Kering reported notable reductions in Gucci's sales, with significant downturns well-documented toward the end of 2023, and continuing difficulties extending well through 2024.
Despite these challenges, De Sarno attempted to pivot the brand from the maximalism characteristic of Michele’s work to embrace more minimalistic, sophisticated aesthetics. His vision had mirrored the styles made popular during Tom Ford's legendary tenure with Gucci from 1994 to 2004. He aimed to create designs not merely for display but for actual wear, demonstrating craftsmanship through simplicity.
Following this announcement, the fashion community is rife with speculation about who will step up as De Sarno’s successor. Recently, Dario Vitale, formerly of Miu Miu, was rumored as the future custodian of Gucci's creative vision, alongside other prominent names, highlighting the volatile and rapidly-changing nature of creative directorships within the luxury sector.
De Sarno took to Instagram to express his parting sentiments, tweeting, "There is no important project without the passion, mind, and heart of extraordinary people. I want to say to them: always smile. Because it's the measure of staying true to yourself." This message reflects the emotional nuance surrounding his departure as many viewed his leadership as pivotal during these challenging years.
Overall, this change at the helm of Gucci signals not only shifts within the brand but also broader dynamics taking place within the fashion industry. The departure of influential figures like De Sarno reveals potential instability and the constant evolution brands must undergo to stay relevant amid economic pressures and changing consumer expectations. With Kering's annual report due February 11, analysts will be closely monitoring how these shifts play out for Gucci and its parent company.