The region of Parma, known for its rich gastronomic offerings, is often likened to the mythical land of Bengodi described by Boccaccio, characterized by abundance and delight. On February 23, 2025, Linea Verde on RAI 1 ventured deep to explore the origins of this culinary wealth, lifting the veil on the traditions and histories behind some of Italy's finest delicacies.
The hosts, Peppone, Livio Beshir, and Margherita Granbassi, began their gastronomic pilgrimage at the majestic Rocca di Soragna, where they were introduced to the cult of culinary excellence by the Arcisodalizio del Culatello Supremo. The hosts gleaned insights about the importance of local ingredients and production methods from those who have dedicated their lives to the land.
Historically rich, the Padan Plain once lay beneath the sea millions of years ago. When the waters receded, they revealed precious resources like salt, which has been pivotal to the region's agrarian economy. Beshir, stationed at the ancient Castello di Scipione, narrated the story of the Pallavicino family and their significant influence over local salt wells, which catalyzed the production of Parmigiano Reggiano and the famed Culatello.
Granbassi took to the strada del sale (salt road) to deepen her historical exploration, illustrating how human ingenuity and animal husbandry shaped the region's agricultural identity. The episode also included Peppone’s encounters with dedicated farmers safeguarding local breeds, like the Bardigiana cow, once celebrated as the queen of the Apennines but nearly extinct. Thanks to the passion of devoted breeders like Umberto and his family, this traditional breed is now thriving, producing milk with unmatched flavor.
Similarly, the Cornigliese sheep, once seeing dwindling numbers, has made a comeback due to the admirable efforts of shepherd Ettore. His flock, numbering around one thousand, now grazes cyclically between the mountains and plains, showcasing the area's rich biodiversity and the commitment to preserving it for generations to come.
Shifting the focus to cultural heritage, the episode showcased the historical influence of the Reggia di Colorno, linking it to illustrious figures such as the Farnese and Bourbon dynasties, and especially Maria Luigia, the popular Duchess of Parma. This cultural legacy continues to shape the region, as exemplified by hosting one of Italy's premier culinary schools. Viewers could witness students learning from experts, including lessons on producing artisanal gelato, demonstrating the blend of tradition and innovation.
One of the highlights of the show was the deep-dive discussion on creating Culatello, often regarded as the king of salumi. Guided by expert knowledge, the process was spelled out, from selecting the finest haunches of pork to the careful curing methods employed, turning simple ingredients like salt and air from the Po Valley region’s unique climate conditions, which are pivotal for optimal aging.
The episode's artistic dimension came alive through art historian Costantino D’Orazio, who revealed one of Parma's hidden treasures: the camera della Badessa at the Monastery of San Paolo, considered a masterwork by Correggio. This artistic gem is just one exemplification of how the region's culinary and artistic achievements are intertwined, echoing the longstanding tradition of excellence.
Concluding their travels, the hosts met with members of the Confraternita del Tortel Dols at the Po River's mystical fog, emphasizing the natural elements, such as the river and its mist, which have contributed to the artisan food traditions of the area.
Through this engaging episode, Linea Verde not only celebrates the lavish offerings from Parma's Food Valley but also emphasizes the importance of conserving natural resources and culinary traditions for future generations.
The quest begins with salt and culminates amid the fog of the Po, all the elements intertwining to narrate the exceptional stories behind Parma's once-lost heritage now thriving once more. It serves as both a reminder of the past and hope for sustaining these celebrated traditions.