In a significant shift for the iconic French fashion house, Jean Paul Gaultier has appointed Duran Lantink as its new creative director, effective April 15, 2025. This marks the first time in five years that the brand has named a permanent leader since Gaultier himself retired from fashion in 2020.
Lantink, a Dutch designer known for his bold and innovative approach, will take the reins of both the couture and ready-to-wear lines, effectively ending the brand's previous model of rotating guest designers. "I consider Jean Paul Gaultier a genius and part of a generation that kicked down doors, so people like us can walk through them freely and be who we are without apology," Lantink said in a press statement. He expressed that stepping into this role is a true honor, emphasizing Gaultier's legacy as a house of creative spirit and savoir-faire that continuously pushes boundaries.
Since Gaultier's retirement, the brand had adopted a unique strategy, inviting different designers each year to create a one-off haute couture collection. This approach allowed notable talents like Simone Rocha, Olivier Rousteing, and Haider Ackermann to leave their mark on the brand. However, with Lantink's appointment, the brand is poised for a more consistent vision moving forward.
Known for his extravagant silhouettes and provocative designs, Lantink is no stranger to making headlines. He gained notoriety in 2018 when American singer Janelle Monáe wore his viral "vagina pants" in a music video, which have since become part of the Centraal Museum collection in Utrecht. His runway shows have been lauded for their creativity, with his Autumn/Winter 2025 collection being one of the most talked-about of the season.
Jean Paul Gaultier himself has praised Lantink's energy and creativity, stating, "I see in him the energy, audacity, and playful spirit through fashion that I had at the beginning of my own journey: the new enfant terrible of fashion." This endorsement from Gaultier, who famously rebelled against fashion norms, highlights Lantink's potential to bring fresh perspectives to the brand.
Lantink's first ready-to-wear collection for Jean Paul Gaultier is set to debut during Paris Fashion Week in September 2025, marking the brand's first ready-to-wear show in over a decade. His haute couture collection will follow in January 2026. This transition marks a pivotal moment for the brand, which had shuttered its ready-to-wear line in 2014 amid a changing fashion landscape.
Antoine Gagey, managing director of Jean Paul Gaultier, noted that Lantink's appointment comes at a time when there is a strong demand for Gaultier's unique vision, particularly among younger audiences. He stated, "There’s a real demand for Jean Paul Gaultier, young people in particular are in step with its values," suggesting that Lantink's leadership could further enhance the brand's appeal.
While Lantink is poised to lead Jean Paul Gaultier into a new era, he has also indicated that he will pause his namesake label to focus on this significant opportunity. His commitment to Gaultier's legacy is evident as he expressed his desire to honor the craftsmanship and creativity of the atelier's talented artisans.
As the fashion industry continues to evolve, Lantink's appointment signals a return to a more traditional structure within the Gaultier brand, which may benefit from having a single creative director overseeing both couture and ready-to-wear lines. This strategic move could help the brand regain its footing in a competitive market where many luxury labels are reassessing their creative strategies.
In recent years, Jean Paul Gaultier has made efforts to revive its presence in the fashion world, with capsule collections and collaborations that have kept the brand relevant. The decision to appoint Lantink as a permanent creative director reflects a desire for stability and a unified vision as the brand seeks to expand its offerings beyond its well-known fragrances.
As Lantink prepares for his debut collections, the fashion community eagerly anticipates how he will interpret Gaultier’s avant-garde legacy while infusing it with his own distinct style. His innovative approach to design, characterized by exaggerated proportions and playful experimentation, aligns well with Gaultier's ethos of challenging fashion norms.
With a strong foundation of awards under his belt, including the Andam Special Prize in 2023 and the LVMH Prize's Karl Lagerfeld Award in 2024, Lantink is well-equipped to take on the responsibilities that come with leading one of fashion’s most storied houses. His vision for the future of Jean Paul Gaultier will undoubtedly be closely watched as he aims to redefine the brand's identity for a new generation.
In conclusion, Duran Lantink's appointment as creative director of Jean Paul Gaultier represents a significant moment in the fashion world. As he steps into this role, he carries not only the weight of Gaultier's legacy but also the hopes of a vibrant, evolving fashion community eager for creativity and innovation.
