An extraordinary day for surfing was marked on December 23, 2023, as French surfers Justine Dupont and Matt Etxebarne took on the monster waves at Mavericks, California. Just days after competing at the esteemed Eddie Aikau event in Hawaii, Dupont's adventurous spirit led her straight to what is considered one of the most challenging surf spots globally.
Arriving at Mavericks, Dupont was immediately drawn to the waves, which were larger than anyone could have forecasted. The conditions were significantly influenced by a potent storm, resulting in waves reaching heights of over 18 meters. This rare meteorological phenomenon did not go unnoticed by surfers and locals alike, who knew they were witnessing something truly exceptional. A local surfing expert commented, "It’s unprecedented, even for Mavericks. Series like this, with such power and size, are extremely rare. You have to go back over 20 years to find comparable swells in the area." The raw power of the ocean called to Dupont, and she answered with determination.
Dupont, who had made quite the impression just the day before with her performance at the Eddie Aikau, wasted no time jumping back onto her surfboard. She was towed by Brazilian surf legend Lucas Chianca, who expertly navigated the treacherous waters of Mavericks. Recapping her daring day, Dupont said, "I thought I had taken a good line; I wanted to tube but Mavericks decided otherwise. I got hit with the lip right on my head. A good shake, some aches and forced rest for the next few days." Unfortunately, the wipeout resulted not only in her impressive fall but also left her board destroyed, adding to the unpredictability of the encounter.
On the same swell, Matt Etxebarne proved to be equally fearless. A seasoned foil surfer, Etxebarne took the opportunity to surf Mavericks for the first time, and it led to unforgettable experiences. "It was one of the wildest days of my life and probably the biggest waves of my life too! The waves kept getting bigger throughout the day! It was crazy to see!" he shared on his social media, beaming with the thrill of the chase. Yet, just like Dupont, he faced intense challenges, suffering wipeouts of his own as he rode the unconventional foil board necessary for maneuvering through Mavericks’ unique wave formations.
The day unfolded with the intensity of the swell being magnified by every breaking wave, leaving both surfers gasping for breath as they navigated the powerful torrents. Etxebarne recounted one encounter saying, "At first, I enjoyed some incredible rides and then—just like Dupont—I experienced the full force of Mavericks. An enormous wave crashed back down on me, obliterated my foil, and sent me straight to the ocean’s embrace. That had never happened before!"
Both surfers personified bravery and skill, managing to withstand the furious elements of nature and ride what many describe as some of the biggest and most fearsome waves they’ve ever encountered. The camaraderie among the local surfers and the heroes of the day spoke volumes as they exchanged stories of wipeouts and thrilling rides during their epic session. Their shared experiences became not just tales of triumph but also reminders of the ocean's fierceness.
Reflecting on the day, those present at Mavericks recognized it as one for the history books, with adrenaline-filled moments and breathtaking displays of raw talent. The event epitomized the essence of surfing—pushing boundaries, respecting the elements, and living to ride another day. Both Dupont and Etxebarne may have left the water with battered boards but surely without any diminished spirits. Their experiences will no doubt inspire many fellow surfers as they continue to share their adventures across the wave-ridden seas.
This remarkable day at Mavericks is not simply another collection of stories to regale, but rather, it serves as pivotal chapters for both Dupont and Etxebarne, setting the stage for what promises to be even greater challenges to come. With every wave surfed and challenge met, they redefine the limits of possibility on the world stage of extreme sports.
