Climate change is casting its long shadow over vineyards, particularly those producing Australia's cherished wine varieties like riesling and chardonnay. The rise of temperatures and shifting weather patterns are leading to challenges winemakers never anticipated.
Justin Jarrett, the founder of See Saw Wine, believes it's just a matter of time before many of these iconic grape varieties fade away. He noted, "Over time, someone might say they used to drink a riesling ... but they (won't) exist anymore because it'll be too warm to grow them," expressing concern over the impact of increasingly hot and dry conditions.
Historically, grape harvests spanned around eight to nine weeks. Nowadays, the entire process has squeezed down to about six weeks, creating immense pressure for wineries to process grapes rapidly.
With this speed-up, wineries are compelled to optimize their operations to avoid breakdowns and delays. Jarrett emphasized, "Your systems have to be tighter because you can't afford breakdowns," illustrating the urgency for efficiency amid climatic upheaval.
He and his wife, Pip, manage three certified organic vineyards across varying elevations around Orange, Australia. According to Jarrett, these elevation differences provide insights on how climate variations directly affect grape growth and corresponding wine quality.
"So we actually see all the time what effect it's going to have on wine styles, and the quality of varieties," Jarrett stated. This experiential knowledge drives their strategies for adapting to the fluctuated climate.
The trend toward vintage compression has also emerged as grapes now ripen simultaneously, puzzling winemakers who face logistical issues. Sharon Harvey from Wine Australia described this as straining winery time and resources due to the pressure to harvest more fruit at once.
"Also investing in additional winery infrastructure isn't really feasible ... and it's created some logistical problems for us," said Dr. Harvey. Grapes occasionally linger on the vine too long or become caught up waiting for transport, leading to complications during the harvesting process.
Dr. Harvey envisions Australia's wine future shifting toward varieties accustomed to warmer climates. With rising temperatures, growers may need to pivot to grape types like tempranillo, better suited to cope with heat and drought.
Meanwhile, researchers at the University of Melbourne are examining innovative practices, including adding water during fermentation to mitigate warming's effects. Lecturer Billy Xynas highlighted the issue of sugar accumulation, leading to higher alcohol levels as yeasts convert sugars during fermentation.
"To some, this might sound like a great thing - more alcohol - but actually, what we see is consumers have aversion to excessively alcoholic wines," Xynas explained. His current research zeroes in on reducing sugar levels to help create wines appealing to consumers.
Despite these upheavals stemmed from climate change, sommelier Louella Mathews is inspired by the responses from Australian winemakers. She observed, "You can see the different regions are now learning and kind of working together" to tackle common challenges.
Dr. Harvey adds there’s also more urgency around discussions of not just adaptation but also mitigation strategies. This includes focusing on reducing emissions tied to climate change and encouraging sustainable practices throughout the industry.
"Mitigation is equally important for the sector," Jarrett acknowledged, pushing for mindfulness around sustainable practices like packaging reduction and transport efficiencies. This collaborative effort shows how the wine industry is rallying to overcome the hurdles posed by climate change.
The future of winemaking down under undeniably hangs by threads intertwined with climatic change. While some beloved varieties may face extinction, the dedication to innovate and adapt may help preserve Australia’s rich viniculture legacy.
