Brazilian restaurants face numerous challenges these days, with rising operational costs and inflation hitting small businesses hard. Yet, some enterprising owners are fighting back, employing innovative strategies to keep their doors open and their prices fair. Two notable examples are Josiane Aparecida Gonçalves Oliveira, who runs Lanchonete Vera Cruz along MS-377 near Innocência, and Camila Vargas, who operates Little Piece of Bahia, serving traditional Bahian cuisine across the UK.
Located between Água Clara and Innocência, the restaurant Lanchonete Vera Cruz is strategically positioned along the busy rout of workers headed to the Arauco cellulose factory. Despite the region's skyrocketing costs, including 100% increases in rent, Josiane has prioritized what she calls "fair pricing" to help her community. "O pessoal até estava comentando nos grupos de Innocência. Quase tudo que vendo aqui é mais barato do que na cidade. E eu não estou perdendo," Josiane said. She highlighted how her self-service meals, priced around R$ 35, provide considerable value, especially compared to nearby urban options.
The restaurant attracts more than 100 diners daily, particularly truck drivers and factory employees who appreciate the home-cooked meals. To effectively navigate the economic turbulence triggered by the pandemic and its aftermath, Josiane turned to the expert advice of Sebrae, which offers consulting services for small businesses. "O Sebrae vem aqui. Todo mês tem uma consultoria. Na área financeira, preço, controle de estoque, calcular os ganhos, como atender o cliente. Você aprende muitas coisas," she noted, emphasizing the importance of learning to adapt.
Camila Vargas, on the other hand, brings flavors of Salvador directly to customers abroad. With her enterprise, Little Piece of Bahia, she has expanded the reach of Bahian cuisine well beyond Brazil. Growing up watching her mother, Maria do Carmo Vargas, pioneer Bahian food sales at local fairs, Camila was inspired to maintain the family legacy after her mother's passing. The restaurant has gained popularity for dishes like acarajé and vatapá, which are now delivered throughout the UK. "Se você não for à Bahia, a Bahia vai até você," she proudly states, capturing the essence of her business ethos.
Camila's story also highlights the resilience of immigrant entrepreneurs who adapt and thrive even when faced with cultural and social challenges. After facing racism during her journalism studies, she transitioned to the culinary world upon her mother’s request before she passed away. "Minha mãe me preparou para isso seis meses antes de falecer. Eu era a única das cinco filhas que nunca havia trabalhado na empresa, mas ela me disse que era a minha vez de honrar nossa cultura," she recalls. This personal drive fuels her mission to honor her heritage through food.
Today, not only does Little Piece of Bahia bring traditional Brazilian cuisine to London, it has expanded to include street fairs and events across the UK. With revenues reaching approximately £400,000 (about R$2.5 million) just last year, the catering component has taken off, delivering over 2,000 orders since its inception.
Both Josiane and Camila demonstrate how strong community ties and cultural heritage can provide the backbone for successful business practices, even when external economic conditions are unfavorable. Josiane employs her family at Lanchonete Vera Cruz, struggling like many businesses to recruit staff. "Porque não está fácil arrumar mão de obra. Quem está na cidade não quer vir para o mato," she explains, emphasizing the challenges of attracting workforce to remote locations.
Meanwhile, the impact of programs like Cidade Empreendedora—an initiative by Sebrae to strengthen and promote small businesses—supports regional entrepreneurs like Josiane through enhanced visibility and competitive strategies. Behind the challenges of inflation and high rent lies the collective strength of individuals who seek to balance profitability with community support.
With insight from these two women, it becomes evident how Brazilian restaurant owners are not just selling food; they are preserving culture and creating opportunities, both locally and globally. These cafes and eateries serve more than meals; they provide community resilience and showcase the rich diversity of Brazilian cuisine. From the dusty roads of MS-377 to the streets of London, these businesses turn challenges on their heads, proudly carrying the flag for their roots wherever they go.