When it rains, it pours—and if you’re Alessandro Michele, the deluge is fashion. The prominent designer took the helm as creative director at Valentino, making his anticipated debut on the Spring/Summer 2025 runway during Paris Fashion Week. The show was not just another exhibition; it was electric and emotional, marking Michele’s return to the catwalk after leaving Gucci just over two years ago.
Set against the backdrop of the Pavillon des Folies, the collection was aptly named, symbolizing both delight and decadence. The venue, chosen surprisingly on the outskirts of Paris, was adorned with shattered glass runways, creating dazzling reflections and metaphorically representing the fragile psyche of humanity. Michele’s show notes stirred introspection, as he poignantly reflected, “We are fragile creatures, constantly exposed to the sense of limit...we move, unstable, inside a transient horizon.”
Making waves reminiscent of his successful years at Gucci, Michele infused his new collection with the unmistakable exuberance characteristic of his previous works. From tiered gowns, lace hosiery, slinky bolero jackets, to extravagant crystal nose rings, every piece whispered extravagance. The runway was alive with floor-sweeping garments, complete with ruffled hems and sleeves, presenting itself like poetry whispering through chiffon and organza. His collection could only be described as maximalism at its best, perfect for fashion lovers who revel in drama.
Michele’s departure from Gucci seems to have increased the stakes. Known for transforming Gucci's fortunes and revamping its brand identity, Michele was about more than just clothes; he was about experiencing artistry. Now, the challenge is to replicate such magic at Valentino, where the stakes feel even higher as the brand seeks to cement its place among fashion’s elite but on smaller scale than its fierce competition, Gucci.
The silhouettes varied from romantic and full of flow to audacious and sharp. Viewers were treated to bold shapes: dramatic collars, layers upon layers of fabrics, and rich colors. There was something nostalgic yet avant-garde—a careful ballet of references drawn from Valentino's own past and Michele's imaginative flair. Each model felt like they were revisiting memories wrapped up in contemporary styling, connecting the luxurious pieces of the past to Michele's vibrant vision.
Among the front-row stars were some of Michele’s biggest fans, including Harry Styles, Jared Leto, and Florence Welch. They sported looks exuding elegance and avant-garde charm—with Styles embracing minimalism in his orange Valentino crewneck, which stood as a departure from the extravagant looks he used to flaunt. Even though the sweater was simple, it carried hints of Michele’s signature ruffles, proving his touch remains even when toned down.
Although the show captured the hearts of many, it was not without criticism, as fashion forums lit up with mixed reactions. Some viewers felt the design aesthetic strayed too closely to Michele's previous formulas—critics suggested this felt more like Gucci 2.0 rather than Valentino innovation. Others, conversely, found the collection breathtaking, noting the rich storytelling embedded within each piece, claiming, "It was like watching a decadent movie, with no models but characters."
Despite the chatter, the collection's theatricality caught the spirit of the moment. Michele's return sparked intrigue not just for the clothes, but for the stories they told. Michele himself described beauty as the capability to explore new layers of art and emotional depth found just beneath the surface of daily life. He said, “Beauty is about the scent of wet soil, the touch of organza ruffles,” referring to how clothes can resonate with our emotions and experiences.
Diving deep, each detail held significance. Models strutted down the runway draped in pieces adorned with velvet bows, frilled fabrics, and couture artistry. It felt like every aspect of the show was crafted to stir feelings and create connections. The use of vivid colors and romantic touches dared to push boundaries established by earlier collections highlighting Valentino’s legacy.
“This is not just about the clothes; this is about the stories they tell,” Michele said as he engaged with reporters post-show. His passion for engaging storytelling through fashion was palpable, emphasizing how each garment has its narrative intertwined with the wearer’s experience.
Valentino's house codes mixed with Michele’s unique style created something fresh yet familiar. Watching the collection felt like visiting old friends dressed up with modern updates. A sense of nostalgia swept over many attendees as they remembered Valentino’s golden age and appreciated Michele’s contemporary magical spin.
The palpable energy from the audience crescendoed to applause, and Michele took this moment to reflect on his time at Valentino, stating, “Fashion is about the senses, and I want to evoke joy and emotion through beauty.” He hoped to continue building upon this foundation set by Valentino Garavani, whose opulence and sophistication remain heirlooms cherished by fashion enthusiasts worldwide.
Indeed, Michele faces the monumental task of reestablishing the house of Valentino as not only synonymous with elegance and luxury but also remains relevant to the modern consumer. The expectations are sky-high, considering how fiercely competitive the fashion sphere has become, where even established names strive constantly to innovate.
Valentino aims to compete with the likes of Gucci and Chanel—names associated with opulent lifestyles and luxury heritage. Michele, with his unique brand of storytelling, has the potential to carve out space within the luxury market, but how he navigates this initial collection will be the yardstick by which his succeeding endeavors will be measured.
Despite the criticism, one thing remains clear—a Michele-designed collection inspires lively conversations, and his artistry holds the potential to shape future runway seasons. Will Valentino’s Spring/Summer 2025 be remembered as the moment Michele ignited the flames of transformation, or will it be seen as just another chapter of his career? Only time will tell, but for now, the fashion world is buzzing with excitement, intrigue, and plenty of opinions on what the future holds for Michele’s adventure at Valentino.
