On September 29, 2024, the fashion world turned its eyes to Paris, where Alessandro Michele made his eagerly awaited debut at Valentino during Paris Fashion Week. This highly anticipated event marked the first complete collection from the former Gucci creative director, and it didn’t disappoint. The collection, titled "Pavillon des Folies," was rich with references to art, history, and the opulence for which Valentino is renowned. A significant detour from traditional runway shows, Michele transformed the Dojo de Paris arena, deviated from classic venues, and created a hauntingly beautiful space for his visionary debut.
Upon entering, attendees were met with surreal décor—a dimly lit corridor brought them to opulent rooms filled with layered fabrics and artfully arranged furniture, creating an atmosphere reminiscent of abandoned estates. Known for his theatrical presentations, Michele’s runway felt both intimate and grandiose, drawing guests deep within his imaginative world. The design elements were seemingly shrouded with layers of meaning, much like the pieces he unveiled on the runway.
The collection was undoubtedly a celebration of eclectic luxury, showcasing Michele's signature approach to fashion with elements of romanticism, flamboyance, and architecture. Drawing inspiration from Valentino's storied past during the 60s, 70s, and 80s, Michele incorporated nostalgic silhouettes and exuberant details—ruffles, bows, and grand embroideries were ever-present. Valentino red was showcased prominently, reinstated as more than just a hue but as part of the brand’s DNA.
Michele introduced models clad in demure pencil skirts accented with dramatic ruffles and trendy lace gloves, capturing the swinging essence of the 60s. The aesthetics shifted gloriously to diaphanous chiffon gowns adorned with Swarovski crystals, revisiting styles from the bohemian flair of the 70s. This creative evolution paid homage to Michele’s and Valentino's reverence for the past yet pushed boundaries with modern twists—something fans had yearned for since Michele’s exit from Gucci.
Jacopo Venturini, the CEO who played a pivotal role in bringing Michele to Valentino, described the collection as infused with the "urgent need to return to creating desires and emotions." Perhaps it was this urgency for resplendent creativity, after years of shifting minimalist trends, which saw Michele’s creations somehow capturing the ethereal vibes of wild romanticism and fantasy.
The ambiance of the show set the tone for what was to be expected: songs and melodies floated through the air, transporting the audience to another world. Music ranged from haunting remixes to classical pieces, underlining the collection's deep emotional resonance. Each piece walked the runway as if it were telling its story, intricately woven with Michele’s personal artistic voice.
Among the front-row guests were numerous celebrities, highlighting the allure of the event. Harry Styles, Salma Hayek-Pinault, and Elton John were just some of the A-listers soaking up the ethereal atmosphere. Styles, known for his eclectic fashion choices, blended effortlessly with the glamour surrounding the show. Meanwhile, the crowd erupted with rapturous applause as Michele’s final looks graced the catwalk, signaling not just acceptance but thrilling excitement for what is yet to come.
The dialogue surrounding Michele's Valentino collection is not just about the clothes; it signifies his position within the fashion industry, particularly post-Gucci. His previous works defined by maximalism and unexpected elements have seeped beautifully back to Valentino, creating his distinct voice within the legacy of the iconic brand. While critiques of his approach may liken it to past collections, the truth remains clear—this debut is Michele’s way of defining his terms at Valentino, demonstrating the evolution of his style compared to former iterations at Gucci.
Adding to the exquisite mix, Michele’s collection bore strong references to Valentino’s iconic past. Historical nods to Valentino Garavani himself emerged with looks bearing classic designs, including flowing trousers, lavish silhouettes, and embellished accents. Each detail brought forth the tension between nostalgia and modern aesthetics—a fitting narrative for the spring/summer 2025 season.
Subtle touches, such as oversized hats adorned with feathers and whimsical jewelry, were reimagined to forge new pathways for what luxury could mean moving forward. The extravagance embodied within each piece—from vivid prints to heavy jewelry—signified Michele’s unwavering commitment to carving out new meaning and identity at Valentino.
Michele also embraced environmental consciousness by utilizing sustainable fabrics wherever possible, connecting the beauty of luxury fashion with the urgent call for sustainable practices within the fashion industry. This perspective aligns seamlessly with today’s consumer mindset, eager for eco-friendly designs without sacrificing elegance.
The fashion world is buzzing with excitement, not only for Michele’s masterful collection but also for what lies on the horizon for Valentino under his stewardship. He clearly aims to balance the high-fashion aspirations of the brand with contemporary collectibility, ensuring the pieces resonate within today’s luxury market.
With his triumphant debut now behind him, Michele sets the stage for his vision to guide Valentino. His collection dares to speak to fashion's future—a new narrative combining zest, extravagance, and environmental awareness, thoroughly embracing the tenets of artistry, creativity, and sustainability. Whether paving pathways forward through romantic visions or challenging traditional norms, Alessandro Michele’s first act at Valentino is proving to be one for the ages, influencing future conversations not just about what to wear, but how to embrace the art of fashion itself.
Can't wait to see what else Alessandro Michele will conjure up at Valentino? With the echoes of applause still reverberated through the dimly lit hall, one thing is for sure—the fashion house’s legacy is far from being rewritten; it’s being reborn.
