In the heart of Paris, where fashion is as much a tradition as a business, a storm is brewing over the arrival of Chinese fast-fashion giant SHEIN. On November 1, 2025, the brand is set to open its first permanent physical store in the iconic BHV Marais department store—a move that has ignited fierce opposition from city officials, fashion industry insiders, labor unions, and everyday Parisians alike.
The BHV store’s sixth floor, with its coveted views of the Eiffel Tower, will soon house SHEIN’s boutique. This is not just any retail space; it’s a prime location in a landmark department store, steeped in 170 years of history. According to NPR, BHV was founded by Xavier Ruel with the idea of offering quality goods at fair prices, a legacy that many Parisians feel is now threatened. The new store marks SHEIN’s first permanent foray into Parisian high-end retail, and the company has plans to expand further, with outlets set to open in Galeries Lafayette stores in Dijon, Reims, Grenoble, Angers, and Limoges as well.
Yet, the announcement has been met with a chorus of disapproval. Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo minced no words, declaring on social media, “Paris denounces the establishment of Shein, a symbol of fast fashion, at BHV Marais.” Her sentiment echoes throughout the city. Florentin Letissier, Paris’s deputy mayor for sustainability and waste reduction, told NPR, “For us, Shein represents ultra-fast fashion — it’s a model we must fight. These are cheap clothes made in modern slavery conditions. They’re bad for the planet and for our own designers.”
The backlash is not confined to political circles. Yann Rivoallan, head of the Fédération Française du Prêt à Porter Féminin, criticized, “In front of the Paris City Hall, they are creating the new Shein megastore, which – after destroying dozens of French brands – aims to flood our market even more massively with disposable products.” The sentiment is shared by many in the fashion industry, who see SHEIN as the embodiment of everything Parisian fashion stands against: mass production, poor quality, and disregard for creativity and sustainability.
Public outrage quickly spilled into action. An online petition opposing SHEIN’s entry into BHV gathered more than 100,000 signatures within a week. Activists and designers have rallied together, founding Une Autre Mode Est Possible (“Another Fashion Is Possible”), a Paris-based initiative focused on slower, sustainable fashion. Its founder, Arielle Lévy, told NPR, “We are in Paris, the capital of fashion. It’s enough. People have to stand up and say we don’t want this.”
On the ground, the resistance is palpable. Major French trade unions—including the CFDT, FO, CFE-CGC, and CGT—have jointly organized demonstrations. In October, dozens of BHV employees protested outside the store, voicing their opposition to SHEIN’s presence. Union representatives highlighted that BHV has been struggling with delayed payments to brands, leading to stock shortages and sales setbacks. This precarious situation has left staff worried about job security, and the arrival of SHEIN has only heightened their concerns.
The impact on BHV’s retail ecosystem has been immediate and severe. Several French brands have pulled out in protest. Mathilde Lacombe, co-founder of cosmetics brand Aime, announced her brand’s departure, saying she was “shocked” by SHEIN’s entry. The French lingerie brand Le Slip Français, already planning to leave due to delayed payments, found its decision confirmed by the new partnership. “Working with SHEIN only confirmed that leaving BHV was the right decision,” commented founder Guillaume Gibault. Even loyal customers like Marie Cosson have expressed heartbreak, telling NPR, “The store has sold its soul to the devil. I came in to say goodbye to the staff.”
For many, the issue goes beyond local business concerns. Recent investigations have shone a harsh light on SHEIN’s global operations. The French National Contact Point (NCP) of the OECD found that SHEIN’s business practices do not comply with the OECD Guidelines for Multinational Enterprises. According to the NCP’s report, prompted by French MPs Dominique Potier and Boris Vallaud, the company exhibits “structural deficiencies” in labor protection, posing a high risk of rights violations. The report cited insufficient due diligence, poor information disclosure, and a failure to prevent child and forced labor. It also pointed to unclear rules on working hours and wages, as well as an overreliance on Chinese domestic law while ignoring international standards.
Swiss NGO Public Eye’s 2024 investigation echoed these concerns, finding that SHEIN workers in southern China face up to 75-hour workweeks, are paid per piece, lack formal contracts or social security, and face restrictions on freedom of association. Paris officials and union leaders have seized on these findings, calling for SHEIN to engage in dialogue with worker representatives and global unions to ensure systemic reforms. The OECD NCP has pledged to review SHEIN’s progress in six months.
Meanwhile, the French government is moving swiftly to address the broader issue of ultra-fast fashion. In June 2025, the French Senate passed a bill that would ban ads for such brands, fine influencers who promote them, and add an environmental tax of up to 10 euros per garment by 2030. Regulators have already fined SHEIN $46 million (40 million euros) for misleading advertising.
The controversy has also touched on issues of design theft and intellectual property. French designers, including Marie-Emmanuelle Demours, CEO of the ready-to-wear label Paul & Joe, have accused SHEIN of copying designs and disrespecting both creativity and craftsmanship. “They steal from anyone, any brand,” Demours told NPR. “They don’t respect people, the planet or creativity.” These allegations have led to lawsuits, though SHEIN declined to respond directly to the claims, instead emphasizing its partnership with Société des Grands Magasins as “an opportunity to experiment with new ways of combining our industry-leading on-demand model with offline retail.”
Thibaut Ledunois, director of innovation at the French Fashion Council, warned that SHEIN’s ambitions go far beyond clothing. “Their strategy is to become the supermarket of the world. It’s not only about fashion, it’s about a model of society — and this is why so many French citizens are really engaged in this.”
As Paris prepares for the store’s opening, the city’s fashion legacy hangs in the balance. For many, the fight is not just about one brand, but about preserving the soul of Parisian style, sustainability, and respect for workers—a struggle that, in the words of Arielle Lévy, is far from over.
