On the eastern edge of Sicily, Mount Etna rises dramatically above the Mediterranean landscape, its snowy peak often shrouded in clouds and its slopes scarred by centuries of volcanic activity. It’s a place of both beauty and danger, a paradox that has fascinated locals and visitors alike for generations. Over the centuries, Mount Etna has earned its reputation as one of the world’s most active volcanoes, claiming an estimated 35,000 lives through its eruptions and related disasters, though not all victims perished directly from lava flows. In recent decades, the death toll has been much lower—just 77 in modern times—but the sense of risk remains ever-present for those who call the region home.
Despite the obvious hazards, a surprising number of people have chosen to invest in the land surrounding Etna, especially for the purpose of growing grapes and making wine. Why would anyone take such a gamble, planting vineyards in the shadow of a volcano with a fiery, unpredictable temperament? According to reporting by the Calgary Herald, the answer lies in the unique geography and climate of the region, which combine to create some of the world’s most distinctive wines.
First, it’s important to note that the lava flows and eruptions are generally confined to specific areas, allowing vineyards to be established in relatively low-risk zones. Etna’s imposing height—soaring 3,000 metres above sea level—means it even receives enough winter snow to support two ski resorts, one on the northern and one on the southern slope. During the colder months, hot, dry sirocco winds sweep north from the Sahara Desert, picking up moisture as they cross the Mediterranean and dumping it on Etna’s peaks in the form of heavy snow. This unusual combination of volcanic heat and winter chill gives the region a climate unlike any other in Europe.
The real magic for winemakers, though, comes from the soil. Each eruption leaves behind fresh deposits of ash and minerals, enriching the earth and giving the vineyards an incredible natural boost. The result is a terroir that’s both fertile and complex, nurturing grape varietals that are found almost nowhere else. The main indigenous reds—nerello mascalese, frappato, and nero d’avola—and whites—carricante, catarrato, and grillo—thrive in these conditions, producing wines with flavors that are as striking as the landscape itself.
Over the past two decades, there’s been a noticeable shift toward quality in the wines of the Etna DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata). As reported by the Calgary Herald, the reds made from nerello mascalese have become especially prized for their “beguiling combination of elegance and power,” often compared to great pinot noirs. These wines typically feature a core of red berry fruit, accented by cinnamon and woodsy spice notes, plus a subtle floral component. The tannins are usually ripe and silky, but some top-tier bottles—like Alta Mora’s Guardiola—show enough grip to reward cellaring for years to come.
The whites, particularly those made from catarrato, are equally captivating. They can be “unctuous, brimming with elements of lemon oil, minerals, and white flowers,” offering a refreshing alternative to chardonnay. In fact, for those who find themselves bored with more conventional white wines, Etna’s offerings provide a more layered and nuanced experience—except, perhaps, for the rarefied heights of high-end Burgundy.
It might seem as though Etna’s rise to wine-world stardom is a recent phenomenon, but the region’s winemaking history stretches back millennia. The Greeks were producing wine on Etna as early as the 8th century BC—a tradition that has endured through the ages, despite the twin threats of volcanic eruptions and agricultural blights like phylloxera. The Etna DOC was officially established in 1968, and today there’s a growing movement to elevate the best producers to DOCG status, the highest quality designation in Italian wine law. As the Calgary Herald notes, this recognition is “well-deserved,” given the exceptional quality now being achieved.
One of the most exciting developments in recent years has been the rediscovery and revival of old, abandoned vineyards. Some of the new generation of producers have stumbled upon plots that were all but forgotten, needing only a bit of tender loving care to bring them back to life. Pietradolce, for instance, found a 90-year-old vineyard and used its grapes to create Archineri, a wine that’s won praise for its depth and character.
Another leading figure in the region is Salvo Foti, a respected winemaker and consultant who has helped many of Etna’s top producers reach new heights. His own label, Aurora, is a white wine made from carricante that, in the words of the Calgary Herald, “reminded me of a good Meursault, minus the oak.” Foti’s influence can be felt throughout the region, as more winemakers embrace minimal intervention in their cellars, allowing the unique terroir to express itself fully in every bottle.
Alta Mora, launched in 2013 by the Cusumano family, is another standout producer. With vineyards spread across five highly regarded sites—some at elevations reaching 1,000 metres—they’re able to capture a wide range of microclimates and soil types. Their cellar, carved directly into volcanic rock, offers natural temperature control and helps reduce their carbon footprint, a nod to the growing emphasis on sustainability in the wine industry.
Of course, all this quality comes at a price. The top wines from Etna typically sell for between $35 and $80 a bottle, with Alta Mora’s offerings around $45. While not cheap, many experts believe these wines are “very well priced relative to the quality and personality they deliver.” Other notable producers include Feudo Montoni, Gulpi, Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Massimo Lentsch, and Tornatore, each contributing their own distinctive style to the Etna renaissance.
For wine lovers seeking something truly special, Etna represents a compelling blend of risk, history, and innovation. The region’s wines are shaped by fire and snow, tradition and modernity, danger and delight. And while the volcano may loom as a reminder of nature’s power, it also continues to inspire those who dare to plant their dreams in its shadow.
As the story of Etna’s wines gains global attention, it’s clear that this ancient land still has plenty of surprises left to share—both in the glass and on the mountain itself.
