On the windswept isle of Islay, tucked away among the wild lochs and rolling hills of Scotland’s Inner Hebrides, archaeologists have uncovered a remarkable piece of lost history: the remains of a "forgotten" royal castle, believed to have been home to kings who once ruled vast swathes of western Scotland. This extraordinary discovery, detailed in a new book published by the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, is the result of nearly three decades of painstaking research and excavation at Finlaggan, a site long known as the power base of the MacDonald Lords of the Isles.
The story of Finlaggan is one of power, intrigue, and ambition. According to BBC and the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, the castle was built more than 700 years ago, straddling two small islands in a loch at Finlaggan on Islay. Archaeologists have dated the castle to the 12th and 13th centuries, a period before the MacDonald clan chiefs rose to prominence as the Lords of the Isles. These lords would go on to control the Hebrides, Argyll, and parts of the northwest Highlands, wielding influence that rivaled the kings of Scotland and England.
Dr. David Caldwell, the lead archaeologist and author of the comprehensive volume The Archaeology of Finlaggan, Islay, has spent nearly 30 years analyzing the site and its findings. "The processing of all the data that was gathered has been a major part of my life since the 1990s, and I hope I have not only provided an account of interest but also a basis for others to carry out more research in the future," Dr. Caldwell said in a statement published by the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland. His team’s work, which included contributions from Time Team specialists in 1994, has illuminated not just the physical remains of the castle but also the broader historical significance of Finlaggan as the ceremonial, administrative, and judicial heart of a medieval kingdom.
The remains uncovered at Finlaggan have revealed a castle complex that was both imposing and sophisticated. At its core stood a large rectangular stone tower, or keep, measuring approximately 19 by 19 meters—comparable in size to the stone keeps found in English castles such as Carlisle, Bamburgh, and Lancaster. This tower provided living quarters and enhanced security for the king or lord, while the surrounding courtyards housed kitchens, a chapel with a burial ground, houses, workshops, and a grand hall where feasting took place. The main island was accessed by boat to a jetty, with cobbled paths leading to the principal buildings, including a causeway that connected to the council chamber on the smaller island—a layout that would have been ideal for ceremonial events and gatherings of the Council of the Isles.
Dr. Caldwell’s research supports the theory that the construction of such a large rectangular stone tower was not merely functional but also deeply symbolic. Rectangular towers of this kind were typically built by Anglo-French kings and lords in Britain and Ireland, serving as powerful statements of authority, wealth, and international connections. The presence of such architecture at Finlaggan suggests that its builders intended to project their status as equals to the greatest rulers of the British Isles. As Dr. Caldwell explains in his book, "The Lords of the Western Isles were powerful chiefs with royal pretensions, and treated English and Scottish kings as if they were on a par with them."
The castle’s fate, however, was less enduring than its initial grandeur might suggest. Archaeologists believe it may have been dismantled because it was structurally unsound or due to damage from enemy attacks. By the 14th century, the original castle had been replaced by a palace built for the Lord of the Isles, marking a new chapter in Finlaggan’s history as the lords consolidated their power. The MacDonald clan chiefs who ruled from Finlaggan became known as the Lords of the Isles—a quasi-independent dynasty that, for a time, posed a serious challenge to the Stewart kings for control of Scotland. These lords behaved like kings themselves, conducting raids on the Scottish mainland and even attacking strongholds such as Urquhart Castle on the shores of Loch Ness.
Evidence gathered from the site includes not only architectural remains but also artifacts that speak to the daily life and governance of this medieval kingdom. Archaeologists found several mounts and keys that are thought to have belonged to caskets protecting important documents and valuables. The remains of a council house, mentioned in a 1549 account as the site where meetings of the Council of the Isles took place, were also discovered. Dr. Caldwell’s book traces Finlaggan’s origins as a center of power and ritual back through the centuries—from prehistoric times, through the Viking age, to its emergence as a royal stronghold in the 12th and 13th centuries.
The significance of these discoveries is underscored by Dr. Helen Spencer, head of research at the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland. "As a charity, part of our mission is to share knowledge of the past with everyone, which is why we are especially grateful to our thousands of Fellows across the globe," Dr. Spencer said. She emphasized that the organization’s efforts make high-quality Scottish history and archaeology books more affordable and accessible, helping to ensure that the lessons and stories of places like Finlaggan reach a wide audience.
For those eager to learn more, The Archaeology of Finlaggan, Islay is available through the Society’s website, and Dr. Caldwell is scheduled to deliver a free public lecture on Finlaggan in Edinburgh and online on November 29, 2025. The hope is that these new insights will inspire further research and appreciation for the complex tapestry of Scotland’s medieval past.
Finlaggan’s rediscovered castle stands as a testament to the ebb and flow of power, ambition, and legacy in Scotland’s history. From its imposing stone tower to its role as the seat of a once-mighty lordship, the site invites us to reflect on the ways in which forgotten places can still shape our understanding of the world—reminding us that even the most remote corners of the Scottish landscape may hold secrets waiting to be unearthed.
