Adidas, one of the world’s most recognizable sportswear brands, has found itself at the center of a heated debate over cultural appropriation and intellectual property rights after unveiling its latest shoe: the "Oaxaca Slip-On." The design, a collaboration with Mexican-American designer Willy Chavarría, took inspiration from the traditional huarache sandals crafted by Indigenous artisans in Villa Hidalgo Yalálag, Oaxaca. But what was intended as a nod to Mexican heritage has instead sparked a national controversy and prompted apologies from both Adidas and Chavarría.
The storm began to brew in early August 2025, when Mexican officials accused Adidas of copying the intricate, hand-braided leatherwork of the Zapotec community’s huaraches without proper credit or collaboration. The sandals, which Adidas promoted as a modern twist on a classic design, featured thin, braided leather straps reminiscent of the traditional footwear, but with a chunky sports sole instead of the customary flat leather base. The resemblance, according to Oaxacan authorities, was unmistakable—and unacceptable.
For many in Oaxaca, the issue runs far deeper than aesthetics. Handicrafts like huaraches are not just products; they are a vital economic lifeline, providing employment for around half a million people and accounting for roughly 10% of the gross domestic product in states such as Oaxaca, Jalisco, Michoacán, and Guerrero, according to the Associated Press. The artistry behind each pair is a point of pride, passed down through generations. “The artistry is being lost. We’re losing our tradition,” said Viridiana Jarquín García, a huaraches vendor in Oaxaca’s capital, standing beside her booth of meticulously crafted shoes.
Mexican President Claudia Sheinbaum was quick to address the controversy, condemning the shoe’s release at a press conference on August 8, 2025. She noted that the "Oaxaca Slip-On" was reportedly made in China, with no involvement from the communities that made the style famous. “Big companies often take products, ideas and designs from Indigenous communities,” Sheinbaum said, as reported by People. She further announced that Adidas was engaged in talks with local officials to provide compensation for those affected, and that her administration was preparing new legal reforms to protect Mexican handicrafts from similar incidents in the future.
The calls for accountability didn’t stop at compensation. Oaxacan authorities demanded that Adidas withdraw the shoe from the market and issue a public apology, labeling the design as cultural appropriation and warning that it may violate Mexican law. In a public letter, Oaxaca Governor Salomón Jara Cruz criticized the company’s actions, stating, “Creative inspiration is not a valid justification for using cultural expressions that provide identity to communities. Culture isn’t sold, it’s respected.”
Adidas, for its part, responded with a conciliatory tone. On August 11, 2025, the company issued a statement acknowledging the concerns and expressing a willingness to repair the damage. “Adidas deeply values the cultural wealth of Mexico’s Indigenous people and recognizes the relevance of the criticisms,” the company said, according to CNN. Adidas requested a meeting with local officials to discuss how to move forward and reaffirmed its commitment to collaborate with the Yalálag community in a respectful dialogue. “We offer a public apology and reaffirm our commitment to collaborate with Yalálag in a respectful dialogue that honors their cultural legacy,” the statement read.
Designer Willy Chavarría, whose work often celebrates Mexican-American culture, also issued a heartfelt apology. Speaking to the BBC on August 11, Chavarría said, “I am deeply sorry that the shoe was appropriated in this design and not developed in direct and meaningful partnership with the Oaxacan community. This falls short of the respect and collaborative approach that Oaxaca, the Zapotec community of Villa Hidalgo Yalálag, and its people deserve. I know love is not just given – it is earned through action.” He emphasized that his intention had always been to honor Oaxaca’s powerful cultural and artistic spirit, but acknowledged that the process had missed the mark.
The controversy has reignited a broader conversation in Mexico about the appropriation of Indigenous designs by global brands. In recent years, the Mexican government has confronted companies like Zara, Anthropologie, and Patowl over similar incidents. In 2022, Mexico passed legislation to protect the intellectual and cultural property of Indigenous and Afro-Mexican peoples, with unauthorized use now punishable by fines and even prison sentences, as reported by DW. President Sheinbaum reiterated the importance of these protections, stating, “Large companies are taking products, ideas and designs from our country’s Indigenous communities. That is intellectual property.”
Oaxaca Governor Salomón Jara underscored the significance of the huaraches, calling them “part of the cultural heritage of this community, a tradition that has been passed down from generation to generation and reflects its identity. This heritage is one of our greatest treasures, and we must not allow it to be treated as a commodity.”
The "Oaxaca Slip-On" saga has also played out on social media, where the shoe was first teased on August 3, 2025. Some fans expressed admiration for the design, while others criticized the lack of artisan involvement and called for support of authentic Mexican huaraches instead. “I like them but it feels weird that they are inspired (copied) from the Mexican artisanal huarache and that no artisan benefits from this, not even involved in the work of making them,” one Instagram user commented, according to People.
As the backlash mounted, Mexican officials made it clear that dialogue and reparations were necessary. Marina Núñez, Mexico’s undersecretary of cultural development, stated that Adidas had contacted the Oaxaca government and that talks would proceed with support from the Ministry of Culture and the National Copyright Institute. The goal, she said, was not only to seek compensation but also to establish guidelines that protect artists without stifling opportunities for collaboration with companies that have broad commercial reach.
For now, Adidas and Chavarría’s apologies mark a step toward accountability, but the episode serves as a cautionary tale for major brands: honoring a culture means more than borrowing its symbols—it requires genuine partnership and respect for the communities that keep these traditions alive.
