DAMASCUS — Rabbi Yusuf Hamra stepped through the doors of the Faranj synagogue last week, returning to the place where he last prayed over 30 years ago, marking both a personal and historic moment for Syria's dwindling Jewish community. It was here, amid the dusty blue velvet benches and peeling paint, where he held the congregation's prayers before emigration turned nearly all of Syria's Jewish population — once over 30,000 — to other countries, primarily the United States.
"Ach, ach, ach," sighed the 77-year-old rabbi, dressed sharply, memories swirling as he entered this symbol of his past.
The Faranj synagogue, constructed more than 500 years ago by Jews fleeing the Spanish National Investigation, had long since closed its doors, the last prayers held within its walls echoing long gone through time. But last week, Hamra returned, marking the first prayers held there since the synagogue was shuttered years ago.
Hamra recalls his father praying tearfully the last day before their departure. "It was very hard," he reflected as they entered the building, his emotion palpable. "For children, they can learn to live anywhere. But this was my home for 45 years. Now I want to bring my family back, to show them this place of my heart."
This poignant visit, accompanied by his son Henry, also serves as broader symbolism linking the past to the potential future of Syria's Jewish community. A small delegation of Jewish religious leaders and former U.S. diplomats was invited by Syria's new government, marking the first official contact with Jewish representatives since the drastic decline of the community amid repressive politics.
Henry Hamra, who was 13 when the family left, characterized the emotion of the day: "I wish my father could see how beautiful it is here." Over the course of four days, the delegation traveled from synagogue to synagogue, including the Jewish cemetery, which had partially been destroyed decades ago due to infrastructure development; members read the Hebrew inscriptions on the tombstones, trying to locate their ancestors.
Just seven Jewish individuals reportedly remain within Syria, with others having sought refuge abroad. The visit sought not only to revive the cultural practices of this dwindled community but also to advocate for lifted sanctions imposed by the United States on the Syrian regime.
Rabbi Hamra, expressing his hope, stated, "A normal, comfortable life. I wish this for everyone. They can make up for the days they lost." Amid the lead up to their arrival, there were concerns about potentially volatile reactions from various stakeholders. The new leadership now steering Syria's political course has ties to controversial groups, raising skepticism among both U.S. officials and some Jewish community members.
The delegation's mission also included advocating for stronger Jewish connections with the current U.S. administration. Rabbi Lopatin from Detroit noted, "If the Syrian Jews have some connections — and they do — they will have a voice and I think it will resonate."
Rabbi Hamra faced reminders of Syria's complex political history, with concerns about the shift away from Bashar al-Assad and how it might affect community ties and revivals.
Despite fluctuated political winds, signs of warm reception were felt throughout the streets of Damascus as once-familiar faces greeted the rabbi with open arms. "I hope America takes this opportunity of supporting this government and sending love to this government," Lopatin suggested, encapsulating the visit's mix of hope and tension. Muaz Moustafa, the Syrian American activist who organized the visit, steered the conversations between the delegation and Syrian officials, asserting, "This is purely about Syria."
Already, questions began twirling as to what recognition Syrian Jews might receive moving forward. With the delegation emphasizing the need for the international community to reconsider its relationships with Syria, signs of potential improvements loomed.
On their final day, more emotional prayers were held at the Faranj synagogue, with the hope of reviving Jewish communal life on the horizon. Asked if they could establish enough members for formal prayers, Rabbi Hamra and the delegation were close, needing only five more. At last, memories flooded the air, reflected through laughter, tears, and prayers exchanged, hinting at the unbreakable spirit of those yearning to return to their roots.
Rabbi Hamra summed up the sentiments of the day, uttering, "Is there anything more beautiful than your home?" Surrounded by the memories and historical fabric of life long lived within the community, this question reverberates painfully and beautifully through the echoes of time.