Every Easter, supermarket shelves across the UK fill up with sweet and spiced hot cross buns, a tradition that’s as familiar as chocolate eggs and daffodils. But this year, Marks and Spencer (M&S) decided to shake things up by giving this classic treat a savory twist, launching their Extremely Cheesy Cheddar and Red Leicester Hot Cross Buns for £2.70 a pack. The move, which swaps out the usual dried fruit and spices for a double dose of cheese, has certainly caught the attention of cheese lovers and traditionalists alike.
But how does this supermarket innovation stack up against a homemade version? To find out, a food writer for Express took on the challenge, baking her own cheesy hot cross buns using a recipe from Good Food, then pitting her creation against the M&S offering in a side-by-side taste test. The results, as she reports, reveal more differences than similarities—and spark a lively debate about what makes the perfect cheese hot cross bun.
The first thing that stands out is the size. "The most notable difference between the two buns is their height. M&S’s is about half the size in stature of my own, so I’d argued that mine had a better rise," the reviewer observed for Express. This difference in height isn’t just a matter of appearance; it also affects the texture. The M&S buns are described as having a soft, brioche-like dough, while the homemade buns are distinctly more bread-like. "M&S almost has a subtle sweetness lingering in the background," she noted, suggesting that the supermarket’s take leans toward a richer, softer bun, perhaps to appeal to a broader range of palates.
But for some, the texture of a hot cross bun is a matter of personal preference. "I think it’s down to personal preference whether you prefer a brioche or bread-style dough. The brioche-esque bun gave away the fact it wasn’t homemade, as it squidges a lot easier without springing back to its original shape," she reflected. The uniformity of the M&S buns—each one looking identical to the next—is another giveaway of their factory origins. Meanwhile, the homemade buns, with their mottled dots of slightly charred cheese, are described as "rustic, artisanal, if you will." The writer adds, "Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, whatever you find most attractive in food."
Of course, the real test lies in the cheese. M&S’s Extremely Cheesy Cheddar and Red Leicester Hot Cross Buns promise a bold, savory flavor, featuring extra-mature cheddar and Red Leicester cheese. But the homemade version ups the ante, incorporating not only those two cheeses, but also mozzarella and Double Gloucester for an extra punch. As the reviewer puts it, "Mozzarella and Double Gloucester cheese add an extra punch of strong cheese, which I wouldn’t be complaining about. As I’ve said before, there’s no such thing as too much cheese."
The homemade buns also benefit from a couple of flavor-boosting additions: thyme and mustard powder. According to the review, "The added thyme and mustard powder to Good Food’s hot cross buns helps to intensify the cheese flavour, making it taste more luxurious and artisanal. A flavour profile that tastes less manufactured and, dare I say, artificial." This subtle complexity, she suggests, sets the homemade buns apart from their supermarket counterparts.
But does the M&S bun live up to its “extremely cheesy” billing? The verdict is mixed. "That’s not to say the supermarket hot cross buns were bad, but they just didn’t seem to deliver on the ‘extremely cheesy’ promise. Personally, they were a bit lacklustre on the cheese front. More cheese, M&S, more cheese," the reviewer urged. She goes on to suggest that M&S could improve their product by adding a wider range of cheeses or even cubing some of the extra-mature cheese to fill the bun inside. "That way, when you take a bite, you get this molten cheesy surprise," she imagines.
Price is another factor in the comparison. At £2.70 for a pack, the M&S buns work out to about 67p each. While that might not seem unreasonable for a specialty Easter treat, the reviewer points out that the small size of the buns makes her question the value. "If M&S’s buns were bigger, I’d feel as though we’d be getting more for our money," she writes. For those who want a more substantial cheesy treat, the homemade route might offer better bang for your buck—especially if you’re willing to put in the time and effort.
Despite these criticisms, there’s an acknowledgment that M&S’s offering isn’t without merit. The buns are convenient, uniform, and have a pleasant, if subtle, cheesy flavor. "At 67p an out-of-the-box bun, I wouldn’t turn my nose up at it," the reviewer concedes. And for shoppers who don’t have the time or inclination to bake at home, the supermarket version is a perfectly serviceable option for a quick Easter snack.
Still, for the true cheese enthusiast, the homemade buns appear to have the edge. The combination of multiple cheeses, fresh herbs, and mustard powder creates a flavor that’s described as "luxurious and artisanal," with a texture and appearance that feels more authentic and less processed. "As a cheese fiend, I feel slightly let down by M&S’s promise of an ‘extremely cheesy’ hot cross bun. I think it could’ve taken a step further by adding a wider range of cheeses, perhaps even cubing some of the extra-mature cheese to fill the bun inside," the reviewer concludes. "Next Easter, I expect more cheese, M&S."
This head-to-head comparison highlights a broader trend in the world of festive foods: the push for innovation and novelty, even as consumers continue to crave the comfort of homemade classics. Supermarkets like M&S are constantly seeking new ways to stand out, but as this taste test shows, there’s still something special about a bun baked from scratch, with all the imperfections and surprises that come from making it by hand.
So, as Easter approaches and the debate over the best hot cross bun continues, shoppers will have to decide for themselves: stick with the convenience of a supermarket staple, or roll up their sleeves and bake their own cheesy masterpiece at home. Either way, it’s clear that when it comes to hot cross buns, there’s always room for a little more cheese.