Bethlehem, the storied city at the heart of the Christian faith, has long been a place where hope and hardship intertwine. This December, after two years of silence and shuttered storefronts, the city once again shimmered with Christmas lights and cautious optimism. For the first time since the war in Gaza began in October 2023, families and pilgrims gathered in Manger Square to witness the lighting of the giant Christmas tree, a tradition that had been paused by conflict and uncertainty.
"It’s not like it was before the war," said John Juka, whose family restaurant had stood empty for the past two Christmases. "But it’s like life is coming back again." According to reporting by the Associated Press, Juka’s words echoed the sentiments of many in Bethlehem, a city where about 80% of residents depend on tourism and pilgrim visits for their livelihoods. The pandemic, followed by the Gaza war, had left the city reeling. Unemployment soared from 14% to an astonishing 65%, and roughly 4,000 people left in search of work. "We’re all living here from tourism, and tourism was down to zero," Mayor Maher Canawati told the BBC.
But on the evening of December 6, 2025, hope flickered back to life. Thousands of mostly local residents, joined by a handful of international pilgrims, crowded into Manger Square. Festive lights flashed above, "Santas" handed out candied apples, and families snapped photos in front of the twinkling tree and the creche. Blue laser beams shot into the sky, and the square rang with a blend of Christmas carols and Arabic music. The atmosphere was festive, but the shadow of recent events lingered.
The return of celebrations was made possible by a fragile ceasefire, brokered in October 2025 after two years of devastating conflict. The war, which began after the Hamas-led attack on southern Israel on October 7, 2023, had upended daily life not just in Gaza, but across the West Bank. Bethlehem’s authorities had previously canceled all major Christmas festivities, and the economic ripple effect was felt throughout the region. "When we have 10,000 visitors and pilgrims sleeping in Bethlehem, that means the butcher is working, the supermarket is working and everybody is working," Mayor Canawati explained. "There’s a ripple effect."
This December, the effects of returning tourism—however modest—were already being felt. "Tourists finally feel safe to come back," Juka told the Associated Press. Hotel reservations were up, with occupancy expected to reach around 70% during the Christmas period. Neighboring towns such as Beit Jala and Beit Sahour also planned their own tree lightings, and hotels reported bookings from both international tourists and Palestinian citizens of Israel, according to Catholic News Agency.
Still, the crowds were thinner than in years past, and the city’s recovery is far from assured. A United Nations report from November 2025 described the West Bank’s economic downturn as the most severe on record, citing ongoing Israeli military operations. Movement remains restricted by military checkpoints, and violence has not abated. On December 7, Israeli forces shot dead two Palestinian men near Hebron, south of Bethlehem, after they allegedly attempted to ram soldiers at a checkpoint. Israeli settler attacks on Palestinians in the West Bank have reached their highest levels since the UN began collecting such data in 2006, peaking in recent months.
For residents like 29-year-old Issa Montas, the journey to Bethlehem was a test of endurance. He traveled six hours from Ramallah—just 20 miles away—navigating a maze of checkpoints. "I see a lot of violence, but no one can stop them, not even the Israeli army or police can control them. They allow them to do this," he told the Associated Press about the settler attacks. Despite his frustration, Montas found solace in the celebrations: "This (celebration) is not just for us. It’s for everyone. Christian, Jewish, Muslims. This Christmas is for everyone."
The sense of unity and hope was palpable among the pilgrims as well. Nataly Taratuta, who traveled nearly two days from war-torn Ukraine, described the experience as a "sacred privilege." She prayed for peace not only for Ukraine, but also for Palestinians, Israelis, and the world. "There are so many clashes and contradictions, if only people could live in peace and friendship. I am so happy it was not crowded so I had time to pray and worship," she told OSV News. Her friend, Anna Tverdokhlib, echoed the sentiment: "When we are here in the Palestinian area my heart is in peace and we are supporting these people. I hope to see more tourists coming back bit by bit."
The preparations for the Christmas celebrations were a scramble, according to Ranya Malki Bandak, director of the Bethlehem Peace Center. "The lighting is a huge event to put together in such a short time. Bethlehem is Christmas and Christmas is Bethlehem. We have been waiting for it despite everything going on in Gaza, we are looking for hope and peace," she said. The Peace Center staff worked tirelessly to restore the festivities, even as conflict continued elsewhere.
Meanwhile, the war’s toll remained inescapable. In Gaza, daily bombings and falling metal fragments have become grim routine, as reported by Catholic News Agency. Father Gabriel Romanelli, priest at Holy Family Church in Gaza, recounted narrowly escaping harm during a bombing in July that killed three and injured 15, himself among the wounded. On December 6, the same day as Bethlehem’s tree lighting, a bomb exploded just 200 meters from his parish—thankfully, no one was injured. "Thanks be to God more people weren’t harmed," Romanelli told EWTN. "The recent strike has left a deep mark."
Mayor Canawati, wearing a sash of the Palestinian flag, addressed the crowd in Manger Square with a message of resilience: "Despite years of pandemic, war and hardship, we light this tree to declare that light is stronger than darkness. Bethlehem remains open," he said, as quoted by NPR. He acknowledged the pain of ongoing conflict, saying, "Our people continue to suffer behind walls, under occupation, in exile and displacement. And in Gaza, our children are born beneath rubble. Yet the voice of the angel still whispers, do not be afraid."
Even as the city celebrated, the realities of the ongoing conflict were never far from mind. Over 70,000 Palestinians have been killed in Gaza since the war began, according to health officials. Since the October ceasefire, more than 370 Palestinians have died in Gaza, and Israeli military operations in the West Bank have intensified.
Yet, in Bethlehem, the Christmas lights this year stood as a testament to perseverance. As Italian pilgrim Jean Luca put it, "It is very important for us to celebrate for hope and peace and for this to be the opportunity to celebrate here with all people staying in peace from different countries and different religions." Local teacher Nadeera Sleibi summed up the enduring spirit: "With war or without war we are very happy on Christmas. Because Jesus Christ comes every year on Dec. 24 and 25. He brings peace to this land because he is the Prince of Peace."
As Bethlehem’s tree sparkled against the night sky, the city’s residents and visitors alike clung to hope—a hope that, even in the face of hardship, light might yet outshine darkness.
